• Overview • Diagnosis • Life Cycle • How it kills • Prevention • Treatment (Medication, Salt, Heat, Organic) • Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon); treatment (including Hyposalinity)/prevention • Saltwater Ick Myths 
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• Overview • Diagnosis • Life Cycle • How it kills • Prevention • Treatment (Medication, Salt, Heat, Organic) • Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon); treatment (including Hyposalinity)/prevention • Saltwater Ick Myths
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DIAGNOSIS: The usual way of diagnosing ich is by close observation of the infected fishes. The presence of small, (.5 to 1.0 mm) white dots (kind of like salt) scattered about on the fishes' skin. This is most easily observed around the tail or fins (especially if the fins normally clear). You can check this out by removing one of the spots and observing it under a microscope. Ich has a small micronucleus and a prominent crescent-shaped macronucleus.  Fish behavior: The fish will often hide in corners near the top of the aquarium to get oxygen. Sometimes bobbing up and down with their head above the service again trying to get extra oxygen as ich infestations often start in the gills and this robs the fish of the ability to properly respirate. Fins are often held down and are clamped as well. Darting and scratching is also sometimes exhibited (although this is more a symptom of velvet in Fresh water or oodinium infestations in salt water). As the he infestation progresses, the fish become more listless, loose color, and often develop secondary fungal and/or bacterial infections. LIFE CYCLE:  Ich is most often introduced into the aquarium or pond by adding new fishes or aquatic plants. Tomites which have only recently attached themselves to the host will not be readily visible. It is good aquarium and pond keeping practice to isolate any new fishes for at least four days under close observation. For tropical fishes, maintain a temperature of around 75° F (24° C). Check carefully for the presence of any tell-tale white spots appearing on the skin of the fishes and treat them accordingly. If no white spots are observed on tropical fishes within four days at this temperature, they can be moved from isolation. Remember, fishes maintained at cooler water temperatures (such as pond fishes) will require longer isolation times.The visible stages of Ich are carried out within the host fishes' skin. The first stages are called trophozoites and are highly resistant to drug therapy. Trophozoites mature into trophonts and leave the host, falling to the bottom of the aquarium or pond. These mature trophonts release from 200 to 1,000 tomtits. These tomites move about looking for a host, which they must find within 2 to 3 days at 75° F (24° C) or they will die. Cooler temperatures will lengthen this time. IT IS THIS FREE SWIMMING STAGE that is most vulnerable to treatment. It is important to note that these intermediate stages may also attach themselves to plants and be accidentally introduced into an aquarium or pond along with the new plants. Once the tomite attaches to the host, it matures and the cycle begins anew. The parasite forms a nodule under the skin or gill epithelium of the fish host. It constantly turns and moves under the skin, feeding on destroyed cells and body fluids. It continues to feed on the cells until it matures, causing damage to the skin tissue. This leads to osmotic stress, resulting in secondary bacterial or fungal infections. How Ich Kills: The general thought as to how ich kills fish is the epithelium (the top layer of the gill cells) reacts to an Ich invasion by growing thicker, the result of this is a restriction of the oxygen flow from the water to the blood in the gills. The lamellae (respiratory folds of the gills) also become deformed, reducing the proper transfer of oxygen. The shear numbers of Ich trophozoites covering the gills also causes a mechanical blockage of successful oxygen transfer. These conditions combine to stress the fish by hindering respiration. The epithelial layer of the gill may also separate and cause loss of electrolytes, nutrients and fluids from the fish, making it difficult for the infected fish to regulate the water concentration in its body. Bacteria and fungus may also invade the fish more easily while it is stressed from the Ich infection. Does Ich lay Dormant, or is Ich always present? Ich is NOT always present in an aquarium, despite many anecdotal claims made in forums, articles or by aquarium store employees (often to cover up for poor quality stock) I have conducted tests (and read others as well) where by I killed off any Ich (if there was any depending on the control group) and then subjected the fish to many stressors than commonly bring on Ich such as sudden temperature drops with NO resulting Ich outbreaks. It is important to note that the Ich protozoan cannot live outside water and if dried, its cell wall would collapse permanently destroying this single cell parasite so this point also makes migration of Ich from anything other than transport via infected fish impossible. This also goes for marine Ich (Cryptocaryon) which I almost never had problems with in tanks where all fish were carefully added and there were no previous outbreaks. Test Method: *Group 1: I used two aquariums as control aquariums where I started the bio cycle using the fish food method to start the bio cycle so as to eliminate the slight chance of Ich introduction via a media swap method (one tank was started from empty, the other was bleached prior to start). Fish that had been healthy for many months were used as the control group test fish, and yes this is the weak link, but I feel confident based on baths performed and results that there was no Ich introduction with these fish. *Group 2: One more tank was used that were already running and I treated it with several treatments of Aquatronics Super Ich Plus (Malachite Green/ Quinine Hydrochloride) to kill potential Ich parasites *Group 3: Four more established aquariums were used where no pre-treatment was used but had had ich at a previous time and had been chemically treated, one a mild treatment with Kordon Rid Ich and the other three with Super Ich Plus. *Group 4: Was a tank that was also established with no pre-treatment but also had a previous Ich infestation that was treated via the heat method After subjecting these tanks to stressors that included in ALL tanks a drop in temperature from 78 F to 68 F AND heavy bio load stressor fish food and filter removal so as to spike ammonia (approximately 2-3 ppm if my memory serves me correctly, as I did not right this number down); *Group 1; No Ich outbreaks *Group 2; No Ich outbreaks *Group 3; One outbreak in one of the Super Ich groups (none in the other two) and a major outbreak in the Rid Ich group *Group 4; A minor outbreak of Ich Before any reader of this rushes out and purchases Super Ich Plus, it is no longer available, however “Sea Chem ParaGuard” and the older “Quick Cure” are comparable products (ParaGuard being my favorite now due to lower side effects on sensitive fish). I also did not use Medicated Wonder Shells in this experiment, but based on subjective use I would expect good results I have no firm evidence of how Ich can lie dormant, my anecdotal thoughts here are that the trophozoites (which are the most drug resistant, except for bleach, bare tank) can somehow lie dormant until conditions are right, where as the tomtit stage cannot live more than a few days without a host. PREVENTION: As in many parasite caused fish diseases the fish may need to be stressed due to changes in environment, poor water conditions, stress from other fish to be susceptible to the parasite (this is not to say a perfectly healthy fish cannot get ich, only that often a foothold in a stressed fish is the starting point). Also, the parasites must be present in the aquatic environment (ich is not air borne). It is not unusual for an aquarium population to have a low level of ich infestation present but not be showing any signs of the disease. Then, once a new fish is placed into the system or a weak/stressed fish becomes the start point for an ich infestation gets a foot hold in the aquarium. Fish can sometimes carry the parasite and not actually be diseased. These carriers can shed the parasite into a new aquarium into which it is placed. If the fish in the new aquarium have never been exposed to the parasite, and they become stressed, they can develop the disease. Put another way, with healthy fish, they can usually produce enough mucous to prevent the ich tomites form getting started on the fish, but once these tomites get a foot hold on a stressed fish, even the healthy fish get overwhelmed. The health aquatic environment can play a major role in susceptibility to the ich parasites. High ammonia and nitrites severely stress a fish. Also long term nitrates above 50 ppm in freshwater or 30 ppm in saltwater can weaken the immune system in fish. Calcium is also often forgotten as an essential to fish health (including soft water fish such as Discus). Without calcium fish cannot carry out many osmotic functions and are more susceptible to disease, including ich infestations. In fact I have found much quicker response to treatment when adequate calcium is present in freshwater aquariums. For more information about Calcium and KH, please see this article: CALCIUM, MAGNESIUM, GH & KH IN AQUARIUMS A healthy, cycled aquarium (0 ammonia/nitrites; low nitrates) with a steady temperature and a GH above 100 ppm is less likely to develop ich, or when it does, a healthy aquarium will have a less serious and more easily treatable infestation. High DOC (dissolved organic compounds) can allow for a more serious infestation and hinder treatment by creating as less stable environment as to KH, pH, and poor Redox, so a clean aquarium with little organic aquarium as well as good circulation is essential. Before you begin any treatment, make sure your water parameters are correct, otherwise this may just worsen the situation and make treatments ineffective and/or poisonous: *Ammonia- 0 *Nitrites- 0 *kH- 80 ppm or higher (depending on fish, marine much higher) *GH – 100 ppm or higher for important electrolytes necessary during times of stress, especially an ich infestation If you are having problems with ammonia, Prime is an excellent product for de-toxification of ammonia and nitrites. Prime only changes the electron number in ammonia (NH4 to NH3) making ammonia less toxic, but ammonia will still show in ammonia tests. Changing 20% of your water before treatments is also helpful in an effective treatment. I strongly recommend reading this article for a more in depth discussion of Disease Prevention (which includes Ich): “Aquarium Disease Prevention” TREATMENT I will cover several different treatment methods, and although I may seem to promote one over another, I would like to stress that many experienced aquarists will have a method that works best for them and their types of fish. What I do want to stress is often many will make statements that one method will not work or that their method is best when not all conditions are equal (apples to apples, not apples to oranges). What I am getting at is if for example your aquarium has high DOC, is acidic and has poor mineral levels, your treatment with medications such as Malachite Green will likely not do well. By the same token, the heat method is not a good choice for a tank with poor circulation, a high bio load, and especially with heat sensitive fish. While under the right conditions (especially with many heat tolerant South American Species) the heat method may be your best choice. I have performed MANY true scientific tests (which involves control groups and testing each method under the SAME conditions), so my results and comments below are based on these tests, not anecdotal results from different aquariums. It is also important to note that regardless of which treatment method you choose, the temperature of the aquarium or pond will effect the outcome since the ich lifecycle is sped up by warmer temperatures, which is why even if medications are used it is often a good idea to bring up the temperature at least a few degrees (say to 80 F) even if you are not using the “heat method”. Another important note, again regardless of method used is to treat long enough to kill the FULL lifestyle of the Parasite. Even many of the effective treatments will often need to be treated for at least 10-14 days (although often everyday with small water changes before each treatment). This where “Medicated Wonder Shells” shine in that although they are not the strongest medicated treatment, they are great for follow up after using a stronger medication such as Quick Cure. Even with the heat method and other non medication treatment, please keep in mind the life cycle of Ich and keep the treatment going long enough to break the life cycle, not just get rid of the “White Spot”. Finally, I will state ANY method will be more effective if your water parameters are the best that they can be, which includes ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and even GH (for important calcium, magnesium, and other minerals necessary for correct osmoregulation of the fish). Good circulation and filtration is also important as well. Medication Treatments:  There are many ways to treat ich infestations in freshwater, less in saltwater, but not all treatments are equal or can be used for all types of fish or all aquatic environments. I will discuss the medication options I prefer to use in my maintenance business or in my personal aquariums first. Although there are methods of Ich treatment that due not require traditional medications (such as heat, salt, even pepper), I recommend a quality Aquarium Ich medication if the infestation is moderate to severe (especially severe), if you are too busy to check your tank a few times per day as the other methods such as heat takes better monitoring, and if your tank has a high bio load and low dissolved oxygen. As noted in the previous sections of this article, low DOC (dissolved organic compounds), good circulation/bio filtration, proper mineralization (such as Calcium), make a big difference in effectiveness of ANY treatment For freshwater a Malachite Green/ Formalin combination has generally been the most effective for moderate to severe infestations. “Quick Cure” is good product with this combination of medications (Malachite Green/ Formalin). Better yet is a newer product “Sea Chem ParaGuard” which is slightly safer and more and more tests are showing this product to be an extremely effective treatment for moderate to severe Ich infestation with little side effects when used properly (it can be combined with a Medicated Wonder Shell at ¼ to ½ dose as well). Malachite Green by itself as in “Nox Ich” is also effective in moderate infestations. Other treatments of note are Copper Sulfate and Quinine Sulfate or Hydrochloride. For scale-less or delicate fish use Malachite Green at half dose. The safest treatment for scale-less fish is Quinine Hydrochloride, but this is less effective than other medication treatments, although it can be combined with half strength Malachite Green for more effectiveness. It should be noted that sodium chloride (salt) can be combined with all these recommended treatments at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon for many fish and 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons for more salt sensitive fish such as Catfish, Tetras, Clown Loaches. This will help most all medications be more effective in part by adding electrolytes that improve the “slime coat” so as to help fish naturally resist Ich. For further information about the use and safety of salt in freshwater aquariums, please see this article: “Salt in Freshwater Aquariums”.  With sensitive fish (such as Clown Loaches) it is imperative that you are careful with most ich treatments. Malachite Green is more dangerous to these fish, however if used in a buffered form such as ParaGuard or Medicated Wonder Shells it is less toxic. You may also use Triple Sulfa at the same time to further buffer the MG (I and many of my colleagues have used this method considerably for Clown Loaches, Elephant Nose, etc. with good results and this is my preferred method for moderate to severe ich infestations involving scaleless fish such Ghost Knives or Elephant Nose.). Another VERY important aspect that is often forgotten is that Malachite Green is much more toxic at lower pH (especially on the acid side of the pH algorithm). Calcium is VERY important to buffer this as well (calcium also improves osmoregulation, see this article: “Calcium, GH, KH, & Electrolytes” ). Other medications than can work for freshwater Ich include Copper Sulfate as found in “Aquarisol” and products that contain Acriflavin (although Acriflavin is a mild Ich treatment and is better suited to Velvet and Fungal treatments). Malachite Green is generally safe (long as it is zinc free) for shrimp, crabs, & snails. Be careful with Copper, and prolonged exposure to Methylene Blue. Please see this article for more in depth medication information: "Aquarium Medications and Treatments; How they work" For severe infections (especially with sensitive fish such as Clown Loaches) I would recommend a bath in Methylene Blue for as many fish as I could capture (especially the really sick ones that tend die quicker from ich such as Clown Loaches again). This bath will also help with the main reason ich kills (at least in my opinion), depletion of oxygen from damage to the gills (methylene blue is a hemoglobin transfer agent). To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a ½ gallon of water, however you may use less. I also recommend about one teaspoon of salt (Sodium Chloride) per gallon of dip water to aid further in aiding the fish via production of more mucous, and yes Clown Loaches CAN tolerate some salt, just not a lot Please reference this article for research proving this: “Salt in Freshwater Aquariums”) Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do NOT pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day. After this bath I would also suggest a 3 minute dip for most dire of fish in a salt solution of about 1.012 specific gravity, this will rupture some of the some of the Trophozoites on the fish. For further more in depth information about highly recommended fish baths (for moderate to severe ich infestations), please read this article: Fish Baths/Dips for supplemental of parasite infestations For mild to moderate infestations I also use “Medicated Wonder Shells” as these products have Malachite Green (lower levels safe for most delicate fish), Acriflavin, and small amounts of methylene blue (not enough to affect bio filtration) and copper. What is best about these “Medicated Wonder Shells” is that they also add electrolytes, calcium and maintain a proper GH, which is very important for treatment with Malachite Green as this medication is more toxic at lower pH and in low GH/Calcium levels. Medicated Wonder Shells are great for use in tanks with poor or no filtration such as many betta tanks, for office or other aquariums that cannot be monitored, tanks are low in calcium, or in cases for aquariums that have new fish or past Ich problems as a preventative. As well a Medicated Wonder Shell can be combined with a ¼ to ½ does of a stronger Ich medication such as ParaGuard for a more even medication delivery as well as the mineral cations that the Wonder Shell provides. One more treatment option is a hospital tank with a Sponge Filter and no gravel. Methylene Blue works well here, but so do ALL of the above treatments as well. A false assumption by armchair aquarists is the dangers of ich medications such as malachite green. Yes this is a poison and can be more poisonous to scale-less fish, but many of these persons do not recognize the importance GH, KH and pH play in the treatment and toxicity of ich medications such malachite green (usually the pH or GH was too low and the medication gets blamed for poor water parameters). At a GH below 100 ppm, you have too low of calcium and other essential electrolytes to aid in osmoregulation which is SO VERY important as to natural resistance to ich infestations. GH buffering is why the Medicated Wonder Shells are especially useful for delicate fish. Also a KH of at least 50 ppm will help to buffer the pH (which buffers the malachite green itself). More should be read about the role KH, GH & Calcium plays even in soft water fish in my article: How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important. For more information about chemical ich treatments; their strengths and weaknesses as well as debunking of some more myths, please read this article: Aquarium Treatments; Parasite and chemical treatments I will also note to the many different treatments currently available; many are similar Malachite Green/Formalin combinations, however not all are equal. One often recommended product is Rid Ich, which is very safe however in the MANY tests of this products it usually fails in moderate to severe infections so unless your fish are strong, the water conditions are good, the disease is mild or you have very sensitive fish such as Ghost Knives, I would not recommend this product. Other freshwater Ich treatment methods Salt method Another method that can work is salt and heat (FW). 1-3 teaspoons of salt is added per gallon of tank water added SLOWLY over 1-2 days (while watching fish' reaction) and the temperature is adjusted to 84-86 F. If this method is chosen you can use plain “Aquarium Salt” which is simply sodium chloride, water softener salt, or even marine salt (which is good for many freshwater fish due to other essential minerals, the exception might be the use with soft water preferring fish such as those from the Amazon Basin). You need to add the salt slowly, watching for adverse reactions, especially with Catfish, loaches, and similar (I do not recommend this method with Elephant Nose, Ghost Knives or similar fish that use electrical signals for navigation). Continue treatment until ALL spots are gone and the CONTINUE treatment for another 3-5 days past this point. I have tested many methods over the years, and many I believe many aquarists use this method more under the assumption that is safer and even more effective, often it is neither (although under certain conditions with certain fish/invertebrates it can be safer). Salt is safe for most fish, but some fish such as elephant nose, Ghost Knives, as well as many catfish, Clown Loaches, etc. are salt sensitive (not as much as Elephant Nose) so I would be careful and not go past 2 teaspoons per gallon. This method can take so long that the fish die of the ich infestation (I have affected a cure with salt, but is generally less effective, and research bears this out). That said a tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons (20 liters) is useful for electrolytes in the aquarium and in turn aids the fish in slime coat generation. This aids in the prevention of freshwater ich and aids in the treatment of ich infestations even when used with chemical treatments. But for serious ich infestations, salt by itself is generally not enough. Under good water parameters and good circulation I will admit that I have achieved good results with the salt method for mild to moderate ich infestation, however even then, in head to head controlled tests under the same conditions, medications such as ParaGuard always worked faster with no side effects when compared to salt. I will also note as to salt treatments for ich infestations, I am not trying to knock this method for treatment among many more advanced aquarists, however I have seen many novices fail with this method more often than the medication methods. My opinion as to why this happens is that most do not have the proper circulation needed, most also wait until the last minute when the salt method is even less effective, and often many just do not have the time to monitor conditions (which is where the Medicated Wonder Shells shine), and often this all boils down to an earlier point of mine and that is all things equal, my tests with the salt method come up short as compared to products such as ParaGuard or Medicated Wonder Shells. It should also be noted that water with a higher salt content does not hold as much dissolved oxygen, so good circulation is important (as it is with any ich treatment) For my article about calcium and electrolytes which has more information about how salt works, please see this article: How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important. Heat Only Method This method is based on the theory (& study) that Ich cannot reproduce in temperatures over 85 F (30 C). This should be performed slowly at a rate no higher than 1-2 degrees Fahrenheit and proved ample circulation and filtration (such as air Stones and power heads). This method is often employed with the salt method, which often confuses many aquarists as to which method truly worked. I do recommend this method over the salt method for Elephant Nose, Ghost Knives (& similar fish that use electrical signals for under water navigation), as well as fish such as Discus and other cichlids, or other fish that tolerate high temperatures well. In general I have found better results with the pure heat method over the salt method. As with the salt method, you need to maintain the high temperatures at least 3-5 days beyond the disappearance of the last white spots. Due to very low oxygen levels in higher temperature aquariums, one should not combine this method with any chemical treatments which will often further deplete oxygen. Please note that dissolved oxygen greatly DECREASES at temperatures about 80 F (27 C), many fish are sensitive to this, especially fish from more salty or alkaline waters. You need to maintain a dissolved oxygen level between 5-7 ppm, under 3 ppm can be dangerous, especially with an ich infestation. This method has its flaws and again is often over rated based on false assumptions. One problem is that this method takes a lot of initial monitoring as temperatures are increased, which many busy aquarists cannot spare the time for, also in moderate to severe infestations the fish already have severely depleted blood oxygen levels due to the ich infestation and raising of the aquarium temperature can be the final nail in the coffin, I have found this especially true with fish that do not tolerate heat as well (such as many North American fish or other fish that naturally come from cooler waters). In my tests with the heat method (mostly in the 80s and 90s when I had access to multiple aquariums in my maintenance business), I also found a higher incidence of Ich return with the heat method over the better ich treatments (used correctly WITH proper water parameters). Another false assumption is that this method is safer than chemical treatments, as I just noted in my previous point this is not true, and the assumption of the dangers of medication is often based on misuse, the use of poor ich remedies, or poor water parameters such as calcium/pH levels which has an effect on many medications and the ich itself. This said, this method CAN BE a safe alternative to medications (as I am not trying to over sell the use of medications as often medications are over used in aquariums when changes in environment are more important) if you have the time, have fish that in particular respond well in high temperatures, or the infestation is low to possibly moderate. Organic Treatments My use and that of my colleagues in the aquarium maintenance business is fairly limited as to positive results with these types of ich treatments, however that is not to say that they cannot work and continued improvements by the makers of these products may yield more positive results in the future, so experimenting with these treatments for mild infestation may be worth your time. One such treatment is Kordon’s Herbal Ich Attack which uses active ingredients consisting of five natural organic herbals, based on their containing patented naphthoquinones which are naturally occurring colored substances derived from phenylpropanoid and isoprenoid precursorsin plants. Of the organic treatments, Kordon’s Herbal Ich Attack seems to show the most promise based on early results and known effects of the naphthoquinones on parasites/fungus/bacterium (the poor activity of naphthoquinones on gram negative bacterium limits their aquatic use for this area of treatment, also naphthoquinones show activity against aerobic gram positive bacteria indicated some harm to biological filter beds can occur). See this article: http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/articlerender.fcgi?tool=pubmed&pubmedid=16553949 Another organic treatment method is the use of hot or black peppers for the treatment of ich in fresh and salt water. Kent Marine makes RXP Parasite Treatment which contains pepper in an easily dissipated treatment solution. Mine and others limited use of this product have yielded mixed results (the claims by the manufacturer are a bit over blown in my opinion), however in mild infestation this may be a treatment worth trying. It is also worth noting that Kent Marine may or is improving this remedy, so later versions may improve. Finally another organic Ich remedy that I have tried, again with mixed results (but with results similar to Metronidazole) is Usnea (please follow the link for more information about Usnea) which is a lichen that is brewed like a tea and then added to an aquarium on a daily basis or as necessary to achieve desired results. Here are a few truths and myths about FW ich (ick) treatments: * Chemical treatments will destroy biological nitrifying bacteria- Myth & Truth. Malachite Green, Formalin and Copper sulfate DO NOT harm nitrifying bacteria. Methylene blue can harm nitrifying bacteria in full doses. * Salt is a natural treatment- Myth and Truth. Salt is sodium chloride (NaCl) a chemical treatment with such side effects on freshwater fish loss of internal chemical balance and dehydration. Some will call Sodium chloride natural, but by that definition, so is NH3 (ammonia). Usnic Acid and Pepper are natural organic treatments. Please understand I am not knocking salt, just some reasoning behind the use. In fact it is an important electrolyte that is useful any time most fish are stressed by disease. * Malachite Green is extremely toxic- Myth & Truth. Older versions of Malachite Green that contain zinc are definitely more toxic, especially for scale-less fish, but the newer zinc free formulas found in most ich medications today are 97% zinc free and are only more poisonous to scale-less fish in high dosages (and Triple sulfa buffers this mild effect even more). Unfortunately many posers as aquatic experts have not done their homework here. For more about Malachite Green (including so-called carcinogenic properties), please see this article: “Aquarium and Pond Medications; Chemical treatments including Malachite Green” For information about FRESHWATER VELVET (Piscinoodinium pillulare), As well as Costia (Ichtyobodo) follow this link (this article is from Aquarium Answers)   FRESHWATER VELVET - Piscinoodinium pillulare; COSTIA -My full article about freshwater velvet and treatments, as well as CostiaFOR SALTWATER CRYPTOCARYON;  Hyposalinity Method A low salinity of 1.009 specific gravity causes the most of the Cryptocaryon tomonts to rupture, killing them. This is method that I have used in the past with so-so results, HOWEVER I found that I was not lowering the specific gravity (salinity) enough as I only lowered the specific gravity to 1.015, which I have now found to be too high to work correctly, I now know that one must lower specific gravity to 1.009 for this method to achieve better results. Marine higher bony fishes maintain their osmotic concentration at about one quarter to one third that of sea water. In normal sea water, these fish have a tendency to lose water from their gills due to osmosis and also in their urine. Fish have to drink a lot of water to make up for the loss, however, as the water contains a lot of salt (35‰) they must remove the excess salt from their system. The sodium and chloride ions are secreted by the gills and magnesium and sulphates are excreted in urine. This is an active process and requires energy much like the energy required to keep warm blooded animals warm. When fish are under stress, one of the processes that is affected is ion regulation. This means they have difficulty adjusting the concentration of ions such as sodium, chloride, etc. Lowering the salinity of the tank water makes the concentration of ions closer to that of the fish’ internal fluids and reduces the fish’ efforts to maintain the correct concentrations. This method is best carried out in a separate tank if sharks, ray, or any other invertebrates are present as Sharks and rays may not survive hyposalinity due to their unique method of osmoregulation. They have similar concentrations of salts to higher bony fish however, they also have very high concentrations of organic compounds which gives their internal fluids the same osmotic concentration as sea water, while marine invertebrates have the same osmotic concentration as the surrounding water. If you have a fish only or a FOWLR tank you may treat with this method in the display tank, keeping mind that any copepods or other invertebrate life forms living in the live rock may be killed by this method, however the bacteria in the live rock will survive and you may save some of these life forms in the live rock by moving some of these life forms along with selected live rock to a separate holding aquarium during this treatment. For best results, this method should be employed for 4-6 week period. It is VERY important that pH and alkalinity be monitored during this period and maintained to prevent additional stress. You should enter this hyposalinity treatment slowly from your specific gravity of 1.019 -1.025 to 1.009 over a 48 hour period using RO/DI or even de-chlorinated tap water and/or water changes using low salt water mixes (such as 1.005 salt mixes). PLEASE note that the freshwater used to replace the saltwater is often too low in alkalinity (KH) and minerals and this can add to the stress of the fish (especially sensitive fish such as sharks/rays), so it is imperative that this water have added carbonates and minerals to ensure that in trying to kill the ich infestation, you do not add to osmoregulation problems for the fish. Products such as SeaChem Marine Buffer can be useful for this. Please read these articles for more about this issue: AQUARIUM GH, KH, Ph, MINERAL CATIONS/ELECTROLYTES Aquarium Answers; Osmoregulation When treatment is finished the fish should be returned via high salt mix water changes (such as 1.030) over an even longer period of 72 hours. For saltwater fish, prevention is still the best cure, such as “UV Sterilization” (although UV Sterilization aids in Cryptocaryon prevention more by aiding in the maintenance of a healthy environment). Also a quarantine tank for new fish and a hospital tank for sick fish are also beneficial. If a hospital tank is available (bare tank with a sponge filter), a treatment with Methylene Blue and or copper is advisable. Keeping your tank slightly on the hypo-salinity side at 1.019- 1.021 will also somewhat lessen the chance of Cryptocaryon and aid in treatment as well. However this is more effective for Oodinium prevention and treatment than with Cryptocaryon. The Hyposalinty method is also very useful as a means or prevention by treating new arrival this way generally in a quarantine tank in either partial Hyposalinity such as 1.015 (Along with other methods such as Methylene Blue and Copper Sulfate/Formalin) or full Hyposalinity of 1.009. This method can also be used for new arrivals in the display tank assuming no invertebrates or rays/sharks are present and you follow correct acclimation procedures. A 5 minute freshwater dip is an effective means of eradicating Cryptocaryon (and more so with marine Oodinium) on fish. This can be used in conjunction with the above treatment methods. In a dip, I adjust pH (so as reduce more osmotic stress than need be) and add Methylene Blue (at double in tank strength), I will use a specific gravity of 1.001 for the saltwater fish. This dip should be no less than 3 minutes and no more than 5 minutes to be effective. This is very effective in removing Cryptocaryon and oodinium directly from the fish (including gills). Do not be alarmed if the fish ‘lays down’ and acts dead, this is a common initial reaction and the fish will usually perk up a minute or two into the dip. How this works is that the cell membrane of the Cryptocaryon cyst cannot withstand the change in osmotic pressure as well as the fish and will burst, that is why the minimum three minutes is a must. It is important with this method to either treat the tank or remove the fish (place them in a separate aquarium) and allow the display tank to be without fish for at least three weeks for the Cryptocaryon to die off without a host. I often use this method when treating with Metronidazole. A 30 minute bath is also a useful saltwater fish treatment for diseases such as Cryptocaryon (this is best used I conjunction with the other recommended treatments above as by itself is not likely to effect a full cure). I would make sure to adjust pH so that there is no pH shock. For saltwater I would add Methylene Blue at double normal tank treatment strength the Dilute the saltwater to 1.015 (making sure your pH stays up by adding any buffers necessary before adding fish). For further information as to Hospital tanks, Dips, & baths, please see this article (in the hospital/quarantine tank section): “Aquarium Disease Prevention; Quarantine/Hospital Tanks, Baths, Dips” Medication/Treatment Methods Malachite Green is relatively safe for saltwater fish and some invertebrates such as crabs and even some anemones, but definitely NOT for cephalopods. Malachite Green is not as effective a treatment as it is in freshwater applications for ich infestations. You can find Malachite Green in this treatment: “Quick Cure”. Another slightly safer Malachite Green based product that also will not alter pH is: “Sea Chem ParaGuard”. There is a marine version of the “Medicated Wonder Shells” which only contains Malachite Green, this product is mildly to moderately effective for marine ich (Cryptocaryon) depending on conditions and other remedies such as dips also being employed. Quinine Sulfate or Hydrochloride is also relatively safe for most fish, but not invertebrates. Metronidazole . can also be used for marine ich infestations and is safe for many invertebrates (NOT ALL! So use with caution), but again is a relatively effective ich (Cryptocaryon) treatment for mild infestations (better combined with dips and/or treatments such as Medicated Marine Wonder Shells or ParaGuard). I have achieved success using Metronidazole in established aquariums (when quarantine tanks were not an option) when all water parameters were optimal and usually combined with baths and dips as well. An alternative treatment that we are currently experimenting with (but have found few reliable reviews, so I admit some skepticism) is a product called “No More Sick Fish”. This product is quite pricy, but also requires small treatment does and so tests do confirm relative safety to corals such as Xenia. Another aspect I am skeptical of is that the company will not release the ingredient list, which most reputable companies such as SeaChem will. At this point in time I would only say to use at your own risk, as although it does seem to test out safe for many invertebrates, its effectiveness for Cryptocaryon (Marine Ich) is still questionable until all controlled tests are finished. The use of a hospital/quarantine tank is still the most effective and safe way to treat a Cryptocaryon infestation. I recommend using a seasoned “Sponge Filter that is kept somewhere in your main display tank, ready for use if the need arises or with a continuously running quarantine tank. If kept in a main tank Sponge Filters will not raise nitrates if properly rinsed on regular basis. Another idea is to use a piece or two of live rock from your main tank along with an air stone for circulation around the live rock and hospital tank. In your quarantine tank, copper sulfate kept at 20-25 ppm (a Copper test kit is a MUST when copper is employed for Cryptocaryon treatment) is still the most effective way to treat in Cryptocaryon saltwater, but copper (especially chelated) can be hard to remove from your system once used and is deadly to invertebrates. I personally only recommend treating with copper in an isolation/quarantine tank. In the case of a reef tank or a FOWLR (fish only with live rock), I recommend removing all fish to a separate tank for treatment with copper, then leave the live rock and other inhabitants without fish for at least 3-4 weeks so as to allow the Cryptocaryon to die off as these parasites go thru their lifecycle. Other excellent options in a quarantine tank include Sea Chem ParaGuard, Medicated Wonder Shells as well as many other similar products. Here are a few myths about Marine Ich (Crytocaryon): • Cleaner Shrimp and Fish; Cleaner wrasse have not been shown to eat this parasite at all. I have never seen a Cryptocaryon infestation stopped by the use of Cleaner Wrasse or Shrimp, nor have I read any documented scientific evidence • UV Sterilization, this is a subject where often otherwise good aquarists and articles go astray. It is often pointed out that they are ineffective at reducing the numbers of free swimming stages of these parasites. While this may be partially true (at low flow rates of under 10 gph per watt they can kill this stage), this is not the primary reason for using a UV Sterilizer in an aquarium, rather for Redox reduction and thus the immunity of the fish so as to help with other treatments and prevention methods, there is growing research outside the anecdotal aquarium community to prove this as well (such a researcher from Asia that I am communication that has made some interesting break throughs in human treatment in blood using UVC to improve Redox reduction to fight disease). The fact is (& this does not even count newer research to back this up) that in controlled tests, tanks with UV Sterilizers Properly installed the incidence of Cryptocaryon was lower and treatment response was quicker than in tanks without these deivices. One statement that worries me about this hobby I read in another article is this: “For me, a UV filter is just a "feel good" device and leads hobbyists into a false sense of security”. This is so blatantly false I will simply refer the reader to research this subject more starting with this article: UV Sterilization • Cryptocaryon is always in the tank; this is unfortunately also a widely held view just as the previous myths are. Cryptocaryon is an introduced single cell parasite, that may give this appearance of being always present as many anecdotal aquarists will note that when their tank chills or they add a new fish that there is an out break, however this parasite had to be initially introduced which is why quarantine or at least dips/baths are so important. As well, often many treatments including the methods I have noted above are not always 100%, so it is quite possible after initial introduction of Cryptocaryon for a later outbreak to occur, especially when stressors are applied to an aquarium (which is why maintaining water quality including Redox balance is so essential) References: Southern Regional Aquaculture Center http://mazarron.mu.ieo.es/publicaciones/EMOP.PDF Oceanography, a View of the Earth by M Grant Gross Colorni A. 1987. Biology of Cryptocaryon irritans and strategies for its control. Aquaculture 67(1-2):236-237.  | Columnaris | Vibrio_Aeromonas | Aquarium_Ich | Aquarium-Medication-2 | Aquarium-Medication-3 | Aquarium-Medication-4 | Oodinium | | Medicated Wonder Shell | Pimafix | Ammo-carb | Aquarium-test-kit | Water-conditioner | Seachem | Quick-cure | Aquarium_Medication | Aquarium-KH | Nirox-Products | | Via Aqua | U.V. 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