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[8] AQUARIUM BULB TYPE:
Aquarium Light Types Explained Here Include:
• T8 & T12, • T5, • T2
• VHO, • CFL, • SHO
• Metal Halide, • LED
• Induction, • HID Xenon
*T-12; a standard pin, 1-1/2” wide bulb. This bulb will generally use more watts and have a lower lumens per watt ratio (usually around 40) and is common in shop lights and even many aquarium bulbs. These are generally the least expensive lamps to purchase and even though they may be “old school”, these still may make up for there low technology with the fact you can purchase several for a low price to make up for poor efficiency. The main caution I would add to these of these bulbs for aquariums is many forums often suggest the use of shop lights as an inexpensive alternative to many aquarium lights, however a 4100 K cool white shop light is not going to come close to a 6400 K daylight lamp that is of peak PAR efficiency (even if you match lumens).
*T-8; a standard pin, 1” wide bulb. As compared to the T-12, a 48” T-12 will use 32 watts, while a 48” T-8 will often use 32 watts (although not always). This is the more common bulb/lamp size in many basic aquarium lights.
*T-5; Generally around 13 mm in diameter. This is a mini pin bulb which generally uses even less watts per lumen than many than T-8 bulbs. A common lumens per watt output for T-5 lamps is around 65.
The T5 has become very popular among both plant keeping freshwater aquarists and reef keepers for good reasons; they are compact, come in many varieties and high lumen per watt outputs.
• One negative with T5s is that the quality control on these lighting fixtures (not the bulbs themselves) is often lacking. The problem has been with some fixtures and ballasts.
This problem tends more with the HO (or VHO) T5 light ballasts/fixtures, and in fact tends to be a problem with VHO Compact Light Fixtures as well. For this reason my recommendation is to avoid the VHO or HO T5 or Power Compact CFLs and stick with the standard output versions. If higher output is needed consider the newer technology SHO, LED or MH lights instead, in fact when cost per lumen as per lifespan is considered, a LED Aquarium Light Fixture is now a much better deal (since LEDs last 50,000 hours vs. the common 8000 lifespan of a HO T5 or VHO Power Compact).
Another consideration for higher output requirements, such as large planted freshwater aquariums, consider the vastly superior in terms of performance and cost SHO light over the T5 (the T5 is a good light, but it is often pushed by aquarium keepers that are not aware that technology has passed them by).
 *T-2; These bulbs are the latest fluorescent technology yet (LED are advancing even more).
They measure only 7 mm and allow for several bulbs in a small space. A 13 watt 20 inch T-2 Bulb (6400 K) produces 950 lumens which is 73 lumens per watt in a very small space with low wasted green/yellow light energy that is often found in other Power Compact Lights!
Quite bluntly, these T2 lamps and fixtures are about the best bulbs in a small space I have seen! These are very useful for small to medium planted aquariums  or Nano Reefs or even shelves for betta breeders.
The linkable fixture feature (although some T5s also have this neat feature) is also a nice aspect of these T2 lights/fixtures (this allows for use in larger aquaria such as 60 gallons PLUS). Some T2s can be linked with small extensions (that are available with these T2 fixtures), these allow you the choice of either placing a T2 in series (end to end) or in parallel (which is useful if you desire a higher output yet in a small space or to utilize a daylight and blue/actinic light parallel to each other) with out having to add multiple outlets/plugs.
The newest generation T2 Lights require less watts to provide the same useful light energy (in particular required by plants & coral) than all other lights except for LED.
When all important parameters are considered (PAR, useful energy, lumens per watt, etc.) the a typical 6400K T2 about 40% of the wattage of a standard T8/T12 aquarium light for the same useful output (a 13 watt T2 will equal 30 watts of most older fluorescent aquarium lights).
The T2 will even exceed a comparable T5 light by about 20%.
 I expect these new T-2 lamps to sweep the small to medium aquarium keeping hobby (especially planted FW and Nano reef) due to their extremely high efficiency and out put. (only LED lights are more efficient, please click on the picture to the left for a comparison).
In fact these lamps are even a good choice for many aquariums such as 60 gallons and larger since each fixture can be linked together forming a larger fixture (similar to some T5 fixtures, which are also good fixtures, just not quite up to the more modern T2 in efficiency vs. output). For instance I have used two T2s linked together for some 60 gallon FW aquarium and two sets of two (placed in parallel in the hood) for planted 60 gallon FW aquariums.
T2 Fixtures/lights also work well in Marine Aquariums (particularly pico/nano reef) since these lamps in the 6400 K version have a high output in PAR required for symbiotic algae that live within corals. As well actinic/blue versions of the T2 light are now available to the consumer.
One negative with the first generation T2 as compared to the older T5 is that there are not the selection/variety, however as noted in the previous paragraph, blue/actinic T2 lights are now available to the hobby.
As well, there is not as much need for some of the versatility other lights, as the T2 has its own versatility such as small space combined with higher lumen per watt output.
I would also counter uninformed aquatic forum comments such as this one: “T2 are still pretty much a niche market that could be easily overwhelmed by the T5 and they could disappear at any time or just become even more expensive”. The answer is both yes and no. The T5 at one time was still a niche market as well, and more importantly the T2 has grown considerably popularity in Asia (possible due to space concerns) and even in small scale Hydroponics/home green house applications in North America. Statements like that are why the aquarium industry is often a decade behind other industries in adapting new technologies (if at all in some sad occasions).
One other negative with first generation T2s that goes for T5s (especially the expensive HO version of T5) is that the quality control on these lighting fixtures (not the bulbs themselves) is often lacking. From my investigation of looking at defective items, it seems to be difficulties in good solder in the confined spaces of these small micro lighting fixtures. This problem seems to be a first generation problem of T2, as the newer (second generation) T2s we are now using do not seem to have this problem with early tests. As well the problem of short ballast lifespan does not exist as it does with the VHO version of T5 lights, but then a VHO version of the T2 does not exist.
 *VHO Power Compact this stands for “Very High Output”. These come in T-5 thru T-12 standard fluorescent tubes and in the newer power compact (usually 4 pin) lamps such as the popular Current USA, Coralife Quad & New generation Via Aqua Helios VHO .
The new Helios & other VHO Power Compact Fixtures come in a variety of sizes with outputs up to 180 watts out of lamps under 40 inches in length, which rival many Metal Halide (although not in depth penetration). These new higher output VHO fixtures/lamps have higher Kelvin and wattage output than previous generation VHO lamps/fixtures of similar size. These can be used for both marine reef applications as well as freshwater planted aquariums (these new VHOs are not scheduled for full release to the public until early 2009).
 Coralife has a new quad lamp VHO (such as the 20 inch; 96 watt fixture) that have high output in small space.
However both these before mentioned lighting systems are a bit pricy in my opinion for the “light out” for the price paid. As well the electronic ballasts contained in not just these, but ALL these VHO styles of CFL light fixtures (Current USA, JBJ, etc.) tend to have a short life span of under 3-5 years in my experience. When the ballasts go out, generally the replacement cost is the same as a new fixture.
With this in mind, I would recommend the SHO Lights which only require an inexpensive incandescent fixture and are vastly less expensive the similar high output PAR light (for example: $35.99 for a 105 watt SHO).
I should also note that as of my latest update of this section (VHO), I have found their durability in relation to cost, and output in essential lighting parameters (not just the way out of date watts per gallon so called rule) is not as good as the up and coming SHO or especially LED Lights, which in my tests, feedback, research and experience are the future of aquarium lighting, especially as it pertains to freshwater plant and reef aquariums.
More bluntly, I would generally advice aquarium keepers to avoid the often over hyped VHO Power Compacts or HO T5 in lieu of the SHO, LED, or Metal Halide for high end lighting needs or stick standard CFL or T2 Aquarium Lights for cost effective aquatic lighting needs.
 *PC (or CFL); this stands for “Power Compact” or “Compact Fluorescent Lamp (light)”. These bulbs come in straight pin arrangements, square pin arrangements, and the self ballasted standard incandescent fixture “screw in” type. These bulbs are similar to T-5s and have about the same lumen per watt output (generally around 60 lumens per watt).
The standard medium base version of these lamps will fit in a common incandescent light fixture, making these lights about the most economical lights you can purchase with this kind of output. These are an excellent choice for use in planted Freshwater or even Marine
 Nano Reef tanks under 30 gallons (or even larger aquariums when multiples of these are used), especially when the hood already contains incandescent fixtures, as you need not purchase special fixtures for these.
See the picture to the left as an example, please click to enlarge
These self ballasted high PAR lamps are inexpensive and make it hard for even an aquarist on a budget (even a freshwater fish only tank) to not provide the best possible lighting for optimum plant and even fish and Nano reef health!
A newer fixture that incorporates these CFL self ballasted bulbs is the Eco Light which optimizes the lumens produced with a reflector that I have tested to increase output more than 50% over a the same light without the fixture in a standard aquarium hood.
 *SHO Power Compact Lights: A newer Power Compact that in my opinion is awesome for planted aquariums (in fact the best) and even for reef aquariums (as an addition to LED or Metal Halide) is the self ballasted SHO PC bulbs. The 105 Watt SHO Daylight bulb puts out 6300 lumens and is comparable to a 525 watt Standard bulb (click on the picture for a link). This comes out to 60 lumens per watt; however this is a deceptive guide, as you can fit many more of these bulbs in a given space and also utilize more efficient reflectors.
 The SHO is already VERY popular with Green Houses/hydroponics and is growing in aquarium use popularity, although it is still relatively unknown to many in the aquarium hobby (although many forward thinking planted FW/reef keepers are aware of these lights now).
In fact the 105 Watt SHOs have been in short supply in the spring of 2009 due to just one company purchasing 1000 of these for lighting greenhouses.
My point is; if a company (greenhouse business) that needs the correct lighting at that are price effective to grow plants for a business, all the more reason these should be used in most freshwater plant aquarium applications (& even many reef tanks as well due to high PAR and output needed by zooxanthellae living within corals).
Keep in mind that there is vastly more research $$$ into horticulture than into aquarium keeping (the money generated by the aquarium industry is just a needle in the haystack compared to most other industries), sadly this point is missed while many continue to use older less efficient, yet often more expensive lighting technology for their planted aquariums.
In fact the medical community is now utilizing these SHO bulbs (& similar full spectrum lights) due to increasing studies that show better immune function, mental health, and more. Similar animal studies show like results. I learned of this when inquiring as to why the SHO lights were currently unavailable from the North American distributor, and they pointed out that several hospitals and convalescent homes had purchased over 1500 of these lights (compared to the feeble dozen or so I will often purchase). They pointed out the simplicity of these Super High Output bulbs are quickly making these a favorite of the medical community for their full spectrum light needs (I now use a few 65 Watt 6400K SHOs in my home after learning this and there is certainly a difference).
Again as with my previous point with the Greenhouse industry is that the Medical community has far more $ for research and they demand products that are proven to work, unfortunately unlike the Aquarium industry.
See these references:
*New Science Sheds Light on Immune Deficiencies
*Light as a Nutrient
Probably the only draw back is that in any tube light some of the light that shines up from each tube just reflects right back into the tube and is lost (this is called “Restrike”. HOWEVER, the spiral design tends to limit this and based on extreme plant growth achieved this is not as much a factor as some may claim (this is essentially a problem with ALL compact Fluorescent lights).
Back to the positives of Super High Output lights; quite bluntly there are few equals for high output aquarium lighting, especially when cost is considered (as well as other positives) since these lamps do not require expensive ballasts like a MH (SHO are self ballasted) and generally cost $30 and up per lamp.
Four 85 watt SHOs (or 105 watt for even higher output) can easily handle a 6 foot FW planted aquarium (some T2 or T5 can fill in some more dim spots if necessary), while in Marine Reef Aquariums this same combination (maybe using 105 watt SHOs) along with one or two small MH lamps or LED lights would work in most reef applications for $500 to $800 for a large aquarium (less for smaller aquariums, or in combination with LED). Consider the 65 Watt SHO for smaller tanks of depths under 15 inches.
 The SHO can be mounted into your hood using a standard incandescent fixture (I recommend using an aluminum or better an easily made mylar reflector) or hung as a pendant light using reflector similar to how Metal Halides are commonly installed. These SHO lamps are also an excellent compliment to MH, VHO or other “strip” lamps for use in reef tanks (in part due to their high intensity in small space and PAR output which is important for the symbiotic coral/algae relationship). Research has shown that many stony corals, clams, and other sessile species that depend on photosynthesis of zooanthellic algae not only thrive but also propagate when maintained under Power Compact lighting alone, and the SHO power compact has a MUCH higher useful light output over standard CFL.
 The picture to the left was sent in by a client that wanted more and correct light for growing plant that has a 200 gallon aquarium with four 36 inch/30 watt T8 Aquarium lights. The top picture shows the clear difference between just one 105 watt SHO and 120 watts worth of 36 inch aquarium lights!
Although this tank is not a marine reef tank nor planted aquarium as yet, it makes a great point as to the output of these lights, despite some of the anecdotal statements made elsewhere on the internet. In fact what is amusing to me is that the only negative comment I have had from someone who ACTUALLY USED ONE is that his plants grew TOO FAST and he could not keep up with them due to his work schedule. Honestly this negative is positive proof of these lamps!
Please click the picture to enlarge
In summary as to SHO Lights, as of the most recent update of this section of the article, the SHO is easily one of the two lights of the immediate future for aquarium lighting (the other is the quickly improving LED aquatic light), in particular planted freshwater aquariums or reef aquariums. This is not to say that T5s, T2s, MH or VHO are bad, it is just when consider all the aspects of aquarium lighting parameters (not just the terribly out of date so-called watts per gallon rule), then throw in costs of purchase, reliability (a problem with many VHO & some T5 & T2 lights) lower heat output (the main issue with MH); there is simply little comparison at this time.
 *Metal Halide (MH); Metal Halide are generally considered the “Kings” of reef aquarium lighting due to depth penetration, output, spectrum, and over all beauty and amount of coral life they help support. Aesthetically speaking the Metal Halide is also hard to beat, however the latest technology LED lights are now beginning to surpass MH for Reefs and LEDs have been proven to surpass MH with plant growth in nursery/hydroponics environments (one study/test shows a 12 Watt Full spectrum LED producing better growth than a 175 Watt MH of the same type!).
Even the newer T-5 lamps cannot achieve the depth penetration and overall output of these lights. Metal Halides generally have very good lumens per watt ratio (although I have seen a lot of variation and even incorrect ratings here); however it is safe to say that MH are generally found with lumens to watt ratios of 50 to as high as 90 which is among the highest of any aquarium lights available (along with excellent PAR production as well).
Metal Halide work via a gas mixture of halides and other elements, the actual light production comes from the small bubble of gas that is held in place by metal wires and/or supports. The electricity running between them and the small gas bubble, heats them, similar to an incandescent filament. This is one of the reasons that Metal Halide bulbs give off more heat than other bulbs.
 The downside is the heat that MH lights produce, often resulting in the need for hood fans and even chillers, although the newer open design units such as the EcoSystems USHIO double end fixture and HQI bulb works well for 10-25 (or even larger aquariums when other lights are included in the "mix") WITHOUT a chiller.
The sizes I most often have used are between 10,000K and the 14,000K with 75 for small aquariums up to 250 watts for really deep tanks (over 30”). With the 10,000K- 14,000K lamp what I currently recommend.
 *LED: The new reef compatible & freshwater plants tank LED is likely to take over the market along with the T2, T5, & SHO (which is the premier planted FW tank light that also is a good compliment in reef lighting) as they become more readily available, the price comes down and watts, PAR, lumens per watt come up. In addition these lights do not have the heat problems, often last 50,000 hours, produce little useless yellow/green spectrum light (in aquarium adjusted configurations), and are very compact.
Please click on the picture to the left for a better view of the one of the newest generation LED light by TMC.
LED lights may prove to be more suitable for aquatic life tank-lighting and reef tanks because they offer superior flexibility when compared with traditional fluorescent lighting. When LED lights operate, the photometric radiation remains within a narrow band on the electromagnetic spectrum. Specific photometric wavelengths are often beneficial to some aquatic plant life and reef tanks. Controlling specific wavelengths becomes possible through a basic network of colored LED lights connected to a digital LED controller. The water resistant casing also provides the LED circuitry with adequate protection against moisture and chemicals found within the fish tank or reef tank.
Since LEDs emit light only in very specific direction, the installer has the option to illuminate a precise area by simply rotating the polycarbonate tube casing. For this reason the LED does not need to produce as many lumens of light as most conventional lights as many lumens of important light energy is lost due to lack of focus, including all power compacts and fluorescent lights in general, but need higher lumen outputs to achieve the same lighting parameters (one test shows at least a 166% difference of lumens at 20 inches in favor of the Aqua Ray for the same given wattage as compared to a compact Fluorescent).
 In tests for plant nurseries (Green House, Hydroponics) full spectrum LEDs such as the TMC Natural Daylight Aquarium Lights or the LED Grow Lights have been proven to surpass even Metal Halide Lights in both growth and useful output.
To the left is the plant growth results comparing the same LED and Metal Halide Lights (please click to enlarge view):
This controlled test has aquatic implications, as photosynthesis is the same whether it be a terrestrial plant, a freshwater aquatic plant, or symbiotic zooanthellic algae found in corals. The only difference would be that light energy is quickly absorbed by water, especially red light waves and many MH (such as a 14,000K or 20,000) have excellent depth penetration, however modern LED lights such as an AquaRay/AquaBeam 500 Marine Blue have similar penetration.
It is still easy to make assumptions from the raw data based on this study with plants that a 12 Watt LED can at least replace a 100 watt MH of equal Kelvin ratings in aquarium applications (the TMC AquaBeam 1000; 30 Watt LED should easily replace one 175 Watt Metal Halide of similar rating for marine applications).
 The picture to the left shows the useful PAR light energy of a MH compared to a LED Light (both full spectrum daylight).
Legend
*Dark Blue = LED Lights
*Light Blue = Necessary PAR Spectrum of Chlorophyll
*Lavender = Metal Halide.
There are mixed reviews on the older generation larger units such as the Solaris (which is basically the first generation of LED aquarium lights & quite pricey at that) that replace the MH.
However the newer 3rd generation and lower cost TMC Aqua Ray are a vast improvement in price/affordability and PAR output; in fact at the price of the AquaRay LED Aquarium Light Strip, coupled with the 50,000 hour lifespan their actual light cost per hour for comparable output is actually favorable to most available aquarium lights.
More about the first generation Solaris:
The manufacturer of the Solaris claims “PAR light output levels equal to a 400W MH 20k. It uses 40% less energy than the 400W MH 20k fixtures it replaces. The life of the LEDs is approximately 50,000 hours, so it almost eliminates metal halide and fluorescent bulb replacements. All heat is radiated up and away from the tank; therefore, it does not heat the water like Metal Halides or Fluorescents. This eliminates the need for Chillers.” However some data shows 20 lumens per watt with the Polaris, while MH bulbs provide a MINIMUM of 50 lumens per watt as the output (most are much higher). Another current problem (at least with the Solaris) is that the usable PAR (or PUR) is lower when compared to a Metal Halide or SHO. Generally the Polaris shows a higher percentage of the blue wave length than the infrared part of PAR than the 14,000K MH. For these reasons this is not an LED I would recommend, but this does not mean that technology is not rapidly advancing in the area of LED aquatic lighting (think of a Solaris as a 1992 Personal Computer that costs more and is 1/50 as powerful as a modern computer), as newer versions of LED aquarium lights have already far surpassed it in both effectiveness and price.
Use of LED to prevent Red Slime
Another positive attribute of LED Aquarium lights as per s recent study (August of 2009) is that LED used in marine aquariums that suffer with Marine Red Slime Algae (Cyanobacteria) can immediately eradicate Red Slime algae when used in a full spectrum lighting configuration. These “immediate” results were just two weeks all the while other lighting configurations (such as switching to 6400 K CFL from 10,000K CFL) show slight improvement, the LED lights showed much more dramatic results. I do not know (as of this update) the exact reasons, but my suspicions is that CFL (including VHO & SHO) still produce more of the yellow/green nanometer range of light which encourages Cyanobacteria and discourages more discourage competing green algae.
More LED information
The flaws of LED aquarium lights are quickly disappearing and based on the energy savings in electricity in wattage of the lights (as compared to MH) as well as electricity use for air conditioning or the cost of a chiller often necessitated by larger Metal Halides (although the newer EcoSystems Metal Halide fixtures do not necessitate a chiller). I should also note that LED light technology is growing by “leaps and bounds” and many of the bugs including price are currently being improved upon.
 IN FACT Tropic Marine Center has a new Reef capable LED (with vastly higher lumens per watt & improved PAR) that is currently being tested by some friends of mine in the professional aquarium keeping business and the price is also improved over older LED fixtures such as the Solaris as well.
This Aqua Ray has vastly better price and is improved in its PAR, especially if your purchase the Reef White versions or Natural Daylight.
Another newer LED is the Current Power Brite LED light strip, however this is more of a supplemental LED (as is the Rio Mini Sun) and although about ½ the cost of the Aqua Ray, its output is about ¼ that of the Aqua Ray (the Aqua Ray has 5 x 2.4 watt emitters as compared to 4 x 1 watt emitters for the Power Brite), making the Power Brite a poor value when compared apples to apples. That said, the Current LED is still an improvement in many ways over earlier generation LED aquarium lights.
LED Light systems are easily complimented with T2 fixtures for smaller applications or the SHO self ballasted high output CFL for large tank applications which are very high in PAR output.
See the picture to the above for an Aquarium with a Marine Blue Aqua Ray LED Lighting system placed over it
*Currently, I am testing the latest generation LED from Japan (made by Lamp Elves). These LED lights are in the testing phase and include adjustable red (610 NM), green (528), blue (460 NM) light outputs allowing the user to adjust the LED fixture to necessary conditions such as more actinic for deeper tanks or to compliment a SHO or similar light or higher and brighter daylight for both reef or planted freshwater aquariums. These also have seven adjustable 3 watt RGB emitters (21 watts) plus 7 more 1 watt 6500 K daylight emitters for higher output than other effective LED light fixtures. Total lumen output at the light fixture is 1950.
As of November 2009 the world economic conditions have brought development of these particular LED lights to a halt, but this should resume shortly again.
*As well TMC has a now third generation AquaBeam/AquaRay that has the latest Generation CREE XR-E Power LED emitters and new wide angle beams. These latest generation Aquarium LED are available in multiple configurations from all blue emitters to the Natural Daylight that are perfect for planted freshwater aquariums. As well they are just one more step forward in LED technology that makes these light fixtures even more of a no brainer for higher end aquarium keepers that are looking for long term results and even value.
*LED Summary; The bottom line is when you compare a LED Aquarium light to the many popular CFLs in terms of lumens per watt, focused lumens, lower wasted yellow/green light energy, low heat output, energy consumption, long life (50,000 hours vs. 8000 hours), the modern LED is generally a better light even in long term cost since (as an example) a 12 Watt Aqua Ray Natural Daylight can easily replace a 36 Watt power compact when you compare ALL aspects of lighting as presented in this article.
When compared to even older T8/T12 aquarium lights, a third generation TMC Aqua Ray requires only 17% (or less) of the wattage for the required light energy of a planted or reef aquarium.
Here is a video comparison between this new Programmable LED and a more common 72 watt 10,000K light fixture:
LED Comparison with Fluorescent light
 LED Aquarium Lights; Rio (Taam) Mini Sun Lighting Fixture
The Rio Mini sun are a small version for marine and freshwater tanks under 10 gallons.
Lunar (Moonlights)
Often LED as noted above are used as lunar or moonlights. This is an area where anecdotal information seems to be the main information available. This includes the common belief that moonlight should be “blue” when in truth all the moon does is reflect sunlight back to the earth (more during full moons, less during other fazes). This means that a dimmed daylight is a more accurate production of moonlight. This can be done by fading a Reef White AquaBeam LED as an example.
Essentially these are very popular for marine reef aquariums for both a low level “night light” and for simulating moonlight for corals and coral propagation.
Where some of the misinformation comes into play is that many will state that fish need these of which there absolutely no scientific proof and also that corals need these for proper growth which also has no scientific evidence to back this up. Many marine aquarists assume from all the regurgitated literature and repeated websites is that corals must have high amounts of blue light often in the 20,000 K temperature for photosynthesis which again the scientific evidence does not support, the peak PAR is generally found in a Kelvin rating of about 6500 K (sometimes higher for deep tanks).
Moon lights (lunar lights) do nothing to aid in this.
 What lunar (moonlights) do perform for the marine reef aquarium is to simulate marine lunar cycles which are necessary for some fish and coral reproduction/propagation as Corals in the Great Barrier reef which spawn 3-7 days following the first 2 Full moons in late spring and early summer. Even here there is still a lot of controversy as to what cycle is best and how much light is best.
From what I personally have observed combined with the opinions of other aquarium professionals is that even low level “white” lights such as 7 watt Christmas bulbs, nightlight bulbs, or even the Rio Mini Sun LED lights work just fine for this since this has shown to be a more of a low level light issue and timing issue that light quality or type issue. Adding or subtracting the amount/intensity seems to be the secret of simulating these cycles which can be accomplish easily either manually or with electronic timers (that can be set to more accurate monthly 29.5 day lunar cycles of lighting). Strategically placing these lights also shows evidence as to properly simulating this effect.
Please click on the picture above/left for a larger animated version of the lunar cycle
Another product that performs the action of duplicating the 29.5 day lunar cycle can be found here: Moon Computer
If anyone reading this article has good scientific evidence to the contrary (or even to support) what I have just said about the use of lunar lights, please email me on my contact page with these references.
Induction Lighting
 Although not a new technology per say, it is new in regards to commercial availability as until recently, new developments have broken down the barriers of costs and technological setbacks, such as EMC interference, lumen depreciation, ability to dim and a useful range of available wattages.
This type of lighting last up to 100,000 hours (often over 20 plus years under normal usage) and is another good candidate to replace Metal Halide Lights. Induction lights do not have the warm up times of MH or similar (20 second warm up vs. 10 minute warm up), use no mercury, have no filaments to burn out, and they produce half the heat (160 F vs. 300 F for a 200 watt Induction Fixture vs. a comparable in output 400 watt MH fixture).
Induction Lights generally have a high CRI of 82 with a high lumen per watt output (surpassing most MH).
Currently the main negative as per Aquarium use is that Induction lighting is only available in 5000 K Daylight vs. a better 5500-6700 K Daylight, although this is still a viable Kelvin temperature as per PAR especially when one considers the high output delivered with half the heat output.
Hopefully the companies that are making these lights will see a market in the Aquarium industry and make them in models that provide the correct PAR needed by corals and plants as these can be a nice rival to the Metal Halide, LED, and SHO!
HID Xenon
HID stands for “High Intensity Discharge”, this technology is currently used in high end luxury cars, however there may be aquatic implications here in the future as PAR and other potential issues are worked out. HID lights use an electrical charge to ignite xenon gas (a colorless, heavy, odorless noble gas, which occurs in the Earth's atmosphere in trace amounts) contained in a sealed bulb. The technology of HID automotive lamps is similar to that of common vapor-filled mercury vapor street lamps.
These Xenon HID lights seem to produce much in the lower chlorophyll A segment of PAR, but currently not as much in the higher infrared part of PAR
Important Parameters to consider when choosing a light for your aquarium (not a complete list):
• Watts per gallon,
• Lumens per watt,
• Lumen focus
• PAR (often easiest determined by Kelvin output),
• Useful Light Energy (not wasted in yellow/green light spectrum that green plants and zooanthellic algae reflect)
• Output in relation to bulb length (this is where LEDs and to a lesser extent T2s and T5s excel).
• Lux, I generally only consider this parameter in deeper Reef and occasionally deeper planted freshwater aquarium to determine if I am getting the proper light where it needs to be.
The watts per gallon is part of the lighting equation as stated above is highly inaccurate when taken by itself, yet may in the aquarium hobby industry still go by this outdated generalization which leads me scratching my head with all the advances in lighting technology. Taken together, the first FIVE points are the most critical (which does include watts per gallon), but no one of these should be a sole determiner of the lights.
As an example of the inaccuracy of the watts per gallon so-called rule, please consider these comparisons for an assumed 25 gallon aquarium:
* 20 watt T12 light with a Kelvin temperature of 5000 K,
Compared to a:
*20 Watt LED with an adjusted Kelvin temperature of 6500 K.
So assuming you would like 4 watts per gallon (this “rule” came about when T12 & T8 were the most common lights), you would need five of the described 20 watt T12 lights.
HOWEVER, once the other important factors are applied the described LED is shown to require vastly less wattage to produce similar results than the T8/T12 bulbs.
*PAR; the LED is more than 25% higher, as well many current LED emitters designed for aquarium and plants are more than 50% higher.
As well the useful light energy adds at least another 25% for an increase of 50% in this area of light output
*Focused Lumens; the LED 166% more efficient in focused lumens (about a 2/3 reduction of necessary watts)
*Lumens per Watt; the LED is double the lumens per watt.
In a rough math equation using a starting point of 100% of the T8/T12;
100 less 75%= 25% less 67% (2/3) = 8.25% less 50%= 4%
In other words you would need 4% of the wattage to provide the same lighting as similar watt fluorescent aquarium light
This would roughly result in just one (actually less, and you will still have more light) of these lights for the same tank size (a 25 gallon in this example).
As you can see the watts per gallon rule falls apart in this comparison, in fact in this comparison one watt of high output emitter LED has a higher output of usable light than the 25 watts of the T12 (100 divided by 4). Of coarse the differences can vary, so even this comparison only works for the described lights and tank, this is also based on the newer Cree XR-E Power LED emitters employed by TMC which have a high output of useful energy.
In fact based on raw data from controlled tests, even the modern comparable Kelvin HO T5 lights or Metal Halide which are so popular do not hold up in comparison to a modern LED with the Third Generation AquaRay LED emitters. This data indicates that an modern LED requires 14-28% of wattage for the same useful light energy output.
Even then a T5 or even more so a T2 are vastly superior to the older style aquarium lights when all criteria are applied (SHO as well are also superior).
Changing bulbs:
With the exception of LED, most aquarium bulbs go through what is called a half life whereby they are at 50% output. This generally happens around 6 to 9 months in time with normal usage however with lower usage (say 8-10 hours per day) this can be stretched to 12 months.
Lighting Time
Here is a summary of lighting requirements for different aquarium types. I recommend timers for any aquarium to provide good daylight/night cycles, however this is even more important with Planted Freshwater and Saltwater Reef or Nano Reef tanks. Turn the actinic lights on about one to 1/2 hour ahead of the daylight bulbs and one to 1/2 hour later in the evening. I generally have the brightest lights on for about 12 hours per day. Sometime with MH I will have them in a third cycle that is on for only abut 10 hours or less. I would run moonlights for about 14-16 hours (some prefer to run these 24/7, however I have yet to find in benefit from this that can be scientifically proven other than aesthetics).
Light (lamp) placement:
Pendant vs. Mirror
The advantage to a pendant reflector over a mirror (depending on reflection quality) is that it will radiant downward in a slightly more magnified fashion than a mirror, however the mirror has one advantage over the pendant and that is more wide spread light distribution.
So this choice comes down more to tank arrangement of plants or corals.
Light Penetration
What is often a bigger issue, especially with deep tanks (over 24 inches) is to allow as much of the blue light (which is found as part of the light spectrum of high PAR Daylight 6400 K lights) as possible through to the tank and often a glass top will block these light rays (over 60%) so using polycarbonate or no lid at all may do more for effectiveness than whether you use a mirror or pendent (see further in this article for more on this subject).
As well for tanks over 24 inches the use of some higher Kelvin in your light “mix” may be necessary for coral tanks or in some cases high light requiring plant tanks. The use of 14,000 K MH in a mix with High PAR 6400 K SHO lights may provide the “mix” necessary for deeper tanks. Even in tanks under 24 inches, the use of actinic blue lights may help provide the correct PAR to specimens lower in your tanks water column; a LED light strip may help provide this.
Here is the general light spectrum absorption of water:
• Only 73% of the surface light reaches a depth of 1 centimeter (less than a half inch)
• Only 44.5% of the surface light reaches a depth of 1 meter (3.3 feet)
Specimen Placement
Reef: Another important point that is often missed by many reef keepers (usually newbies) is even with newer technology high output lights (such as a MH, LED, HO T5, T2, or SHO), specimen placement can make or break a good light system.
As per the previous section as to general light absorption of water, I would move corals as high up in the water column as possible, this especially important with SPS corals (short polyp stony corals) where placement on the rocks directly under your lights is even more essential. This is not as essential with LPS corals (long polyp stony corals) since they are more commonly found in near the sandy lagoon bottoms.
Sometimes in conversations with reef enthusiasts that are questioning different lighting systems/ideas is that it is often missed that the most high light requiring corals (such as SPS) do not grow 100 feet (30 meters) below the surface in the reefs and that these corals will be just below the surface, so regardless of the lights you choose, placement is extremely important. Even less light demanding tropical reef building corals species are restricted to the euphotic zone, the region in the ocean where light penetrates to a depth of approximately 230 feet or 70 meters (there are cold water corals that grow in deeper water, however these are not the reef building corals kept in aquariums that secrete calcium carbonate).
I should also note that with SPS corals in my own experience, that placement low or even in substrate that I have observed the corals getting “eaten away” by bacteria from the bottom up; while this is an anecdotal observation of mine (as other factors were not tested in a controlled scientific study), it is still consideration in coral specimen placement.
The bottom line is that you can have the best lighting system that money can buy, but poor placement of specimens can make it all for not.
If your lights are for Freshwater plants I would move the high light requiring plants directly under the lights (I generally elevate them with terracing, which can look quite attractive if done well and serve a dual purpose of aesthetics and better light energy absorption).
TANK SET UP LIGHTING SUGGESTIONS:
Please note that I have received many requests for exact recommendations of lights for certain aquariums. I prefer to not give these as there are too many variables which then will make my advice anecdotal, as with Aquarium Medications, Chemistry, & similar subjects I prefer to give as many tools for the aquarium keeper to make an educated decision on his/her own. As well since Lighting is a fast changing part of aquarium keeping, a recommendation I make today may be less accurate in a year (or less).
As a guide I will make a few suggestions in the following sections, however please take these as suggestions, not something written in stone. Please consider all I have written up to this point, your personal aquarium parameters, inhabitants, budget (which is always important), & more when deciding what lighting systems or combinations there of to use.
 • A BASIC FRESHWATER FISH TANK (including some low light plants) tank MAY not need as much lighting and will often do OK with one “Aqua Glo”, “Color Max” or similar (30 watt) light for a 60 gallon aquarium.
A 6400 K Power Compact is also an excellent basic freshwater and inexpensive tank lamp. Please keep in mind that even though “Aqua Glo” and “Color Max” produce some PAR, they do not have the output (lumens per watt, lux) for any thing more than low light plants. Other basic T8 & T12 aquarium lights worth considering that are also reasonable good lights are the ZooMed and Coralife Trichromatic as well as the ZooMed FloraSun and VitaLite. There are many others that have reasonable outputs in the 5500-8000 Kelvin range.
It is worth noting for even a basic freshwater aquarium that better lighting will usually result in healthier fish and easier control of algae, especially Brown Diatom Algae. Higher PAR lights may have an effect on Redox which directly impacts fish health, absorption of nutrients, and general disease resistance of fish
Unfortunately for many basic freshwater aquarium hobbyists, commonly sold aquarium bulbs do not publish anything other than “aquarium light for that brings out fish color”.
Besides the before mentioned Power Compact lights, the T2 lights are excellent lights that have good PAR for health, plant growth, less Brown Algae. These can also be linked for larger aquariums which makes for a one size fits all first rate fixture (pictured to the left).
Please AVOID the incandescent standard aquarium light that are unfortunately still sold in many aquarium supply retailers (please consider substituting CFL lamps mentioned earlier in these fixtures!)
*As an example, with a 36”L x 15”W x 16”H 40 gallon aquarium I would suggest (2) 11 Watt 6400K (or even only one 13 watt) T2 Lights as a good set up for a basic freshwater aquarium.
For further basic freshwater tank lighting information, please see this article (in the Light Basics section): “Freshwater Aquarium Basics, Care”
• A FRESHWATER PLANT aquarium needs more ultra-violet and infrared plus more lumens/watts of light. Photosynthesis takes place at the blue end and at the red end of the Nanometer curve (420 nm blue and 670 nm red). The "valley" is around 550 nm, this is where most visible light is present and is why plant leaves mostly reflect green light, while they absorb red and blue. This curve drops sharply below 400 nm and above 700 nm. This area of peak photosynthesis is referred to as “PAR” as discussed earlier.
In aquariums where you cannot or do not want to have multiple bulbs, an approximately 6500 K bulb works best for plants.
In smaller aquariums I now tend to use the economical Power Compacts with 6400 K Daylight (which tend to be full spectrum as far as green plant growth is concerned) and occasionally actinic combinations. An excellent bulb for plant tanks that will fit in a standard socket is the 6400K, 15 watt Fluorescent Daylight bulb for aquariums or the Eco Light complete CFL clamp fixture (pictured to the left). This is a great plant and fish light; this bulb fits any standard incandescent fixture and is an inexpensive way to turn an incandescent hood into a power compact light fixture useful for plant growth in small aquariums!
For a step up in smaller tanks, the T5 and especially the T2 in 6000 to 7000 K range are good choices. The T2 Fixtures (pictured to the left) can be mounted in a hood, placed on or above an aquarium, attached end to end to make a long fixture or overlapped, making these about the most versatile plant capable (or Nano Reef) fixture available today. For tanks as large as 75-100 gallons (a minimum of four 13 watt/20 inch T2s would be required for planted tanks this large).
For larger Aquariums (over 60 gallons) I recommend the newer SHO (Super High Output) 6400K Bulbs, high output lamps. Quite bluntly I have not seen a better plant light as of writing this (which is why they are also popular in Greenhouse use).
The “new generation” LED Aquarium Lights which can be purchased in Reef White and Natural Daylight Configurations for high end, long life, low energy applications (despite the name “Marine White, these LEDs have an excellent PAR for freshwater plants and combine well with “Natural Daylight” LEDs)
Since plants use both green and red light for growth, the use of either full spectrum Trichromatic daylight (or possibly 50/50; Blue/daylight) are useful for healthy green plant growth. I have seen it mentioned & observed that blue actinic light will encourage certain algae growth. The blue light encourages all green growth, both plant and algae, so if the plants can out compete algae based on other parameters this generally is not an issue.
I have observed (as well as heard from others) that Black Beard Algae (BBA) is more common in tanks where actinic lights are employed, admittedly this is by non scientific observation, but I would consider using only 6000 to 7000 K lights if this is a concern
Incandescent bulbs have a high infrared output and do well with plants, but also put out a lot of undesirable heat and tend to more in the wasted energy yellow spectrum as well (not to mention a 85 watt standard inc. bulb does not even come close to comparing to a 85 Watt 6400 K SHO Bulb in output even though they are of the same wattage). Cool white fluorescent bulbs should never be used in any aquarium as they only put out visible light (around 550 NM ) and not the spectrum needed by plants or even fish (although if enough are used one ca achieve enough PAR and lumens to keep plants alive). Keep in mind the light requirements of the plants you are keeping. As stated above, watts per gallon is not the only rule to follow for aquarium plant requirements. Know your plants and know your lights then loosely apply this rule.
A final note as to freshwater plants, is that the more light (in correct PAR) you add, even in low light plants, the more the plants will require additional nutrients; in particular carbon. This can be provided by fish respiration, products such as Flourish Excel and CO2 generators, however in medium to high light plants you will likely need to supplement CO2 in some form or another.
Please read this freshwater aquarium plants article for much more about this subject:
“Planted Aquariums”
*As an example, with a 36”L x 15”W x 16”H 40 gallon aquarium I would suggest (2) 13 Watt 6400K T2 Lights as a good set up for a low/medium light planted aquarium, Or (2) 65 Watt SHO or (2) Natural Daylight TMC LED lights for a high light planted aquarium (of coarse combinations of lights and other variables apply)
*Please note that as of the most recent update, the SHO is still my preferred light for high light requiring planted tanks over much over 60 gallons due to the shear output of usable light energy in a relatively small space (as well as based on results in the indoor horticulture industry). However these lights do not fit as well into low hoods as would a LED, T2, or T5 and and although they do not require fans, good hood ventilation is also important. The SHO also requires a little more DIY ability as well.
• A BASIC SALTWATER or FOWLR tank also does not have as high of requirements, as but more than freshwater (especially if you do not want too much brown algae). A “Coralife 10,000 K” or “Hagen Power Glo” are reasonable (but very outdated) basic saltwater lights.
The T2 Fixtures are an excellent “step up” from basic with vastly higher output per watt. The newer Newest Generation T2 Fixtures are an excellent choice for smaller aquariums or even larger aquariums when the T2 fixtures are connected together.
For smaller tanks the 6400 K CFL lights make a good choice and the SHO for larger aquariums.
Finally and although pricey, an LED is still worth considering especially when you consider the 50,000 hour life, and high usable light energy output.
Recent research in humans can also be extrapolated to fish only tanks that shows good lighting can improve health and increase disease resistance; for this reason a T2, SHO, or LED are worth considering over a1980s style “Marine Glo” T12/T8 light
*As an example, with a 36”L x 15”W x 16”H 40 gallon basic marine aquarium I would suggest (2) 13 Watt 6400K T2 Lights, or (2) 13 Watt 6400K and (1) Blue T2 Light as a good set up (other combinations of lights and other variables apply).
One TMC AquaBeam Reef White, Marine White or Marine Blue can easily light a 40 gallon fish only/FOWLR marine aquarium as another alternative.
• A BASIC REEF OR NANO REEF: In a 10 gallon Nano Reef, two 15-18 watt 6400 K Power Compact bulbs will usually do well especially if used with a new high output T2 lamp.
The new 6400K, Actinic T-2 Lamps/Fixtures are good compliment to a Nano Reef due to their compact size and high lumens per watt output and our now my choice for these tanks. As noted earlier, optimum PAR is what the coral needs and this is achieved best in lamps around 6400K, ESPECIALLY in smaller Nano Reefs!
These fixtures can also be mounted in parallel and/or snapped together end to end for larger aquariums with higher output needs.
Other considerations especially larger basic reef tanks are a VHO Light or even a 65-105 watt SHO bulb. The Helio bulbs come in actinic 50/50 combination for those still holding to the “old school” view that actinic is a must (albeit scientifically untrue!!!).
Of coarse the Metal Halide should never be over looked especially if your budget can afford them and the newer EcoSystems Metal Halide can be mounted over an open Nano Reef Aquarium thus dissipating heat so that a chiller is not required as in many older style of Metal Halide Fixtures.
Finally the VERY new AquaRay LED Light systems can be used alone or in combination with T2 or T5, CFL or SHO lamps for Basic Reef or Nano Reef Tanks. (generally recommend the Aqua Ray combined with the T2 6400 fixtures in tanks under 60 gallons)
*As an example, with a 36”L x 15”W x 16”H 40 gallon aquarium I would suggest (2) Reef White TMC LED lights or (2) 6400 T2 & (1 or 2) Marine Blue TMC LED for a basic reef aquarium (of coarse combinations of lights and other variables apply)
*Another example with a 60 gallon hex aquarium, I would suggest the more compact TMC AquaBeam 1000 with more than double the output of the TMC AquaRay/Beam Strips in a more compact space (for longer tanks, the LED strips are generally still more practical)
• AN ADVANCED REEF with hard corals (photosynthetic corals which obtain their primary source of energy from light and then also actively feed to obtain more energy) may need a several or a combination thereof Metal Halide and Marine Reef LED, SHO, T2, T5, or CFL bulbs.
In the past for a 60 gallon reef aquarium I generally used one 175 watt 8000- 20,000K metal halide (depending upon tank depth; in deeper tanks I use higher Kelvin MH) and one 10,000K daylight (40 watt) and one actinic (40 watt).
However the SHO bulbs can work here as well as stated earlier in this article: “Research has shown that many stony corals, clams, and other sessile species that depend on photosynthesis of zooanthellic algae not only thrive but also propagate when maintained under Power Compact lighting alone, provided they are of the PAR which usually falls around 6400K”.
For this same 60 gallon Reef tank four Aqua Ray LED lights in a combination of Reef White and Marine Blue would make for an excellent high end application; with two T2 Lights being substituted to keep initial costs down in Reef tanks with slightly less light demanding coral inhabitants.
A combination of a Marine Blue LED and 85 or 105 SHO lights can be an effective lighting system for many advanced reef tanks under 125-150 gallons. With this configuration, the best way to install these in your canopy/hood would be to place them in a slightly staggered parallel.
It should be noted that despite some of the common statements made in aquarium stores as well as here on the internet; 6400 K is where you will find the closest output to optimum PAR that is required by the symbiotic algae that live within the corals.
The exception is that for tanks over 24-30 inches deep you will need a higher Kelvin output to achieve maximum PAR, usually 8000K to 14,000K to reach the corals (which still should placed higher in the water column of the aquarium).
In a large Advanced reef aquarium combinations of lighting systems may yield your best results and also possibly alleviate the need for expensive and often unreliable chillers.
For example in an 8 foot 200 plus gallon advanced reef tank one possible lighting arrangement is the use of about four 85 or 105 SHO lamps mixed with a couple Reef White LED and a AquaBeam 1000 or Metal Halides over the most sensitive corals.
Of course for energy and heat saving the use of all LED Aquarium lights is now a reasonable option due to lower costs of purchase, much higher useful energy output, and long life (50,000 hours vs. 8000-10,000 hours of other lights)
Marine Lighting Summary;
I will point out that there is no one way to best light a marine aquarium, so my apologies for the multiple suggestions that may leave some scratching their heads wondering if there is one best lighting system for marine aquariums (especially reef). The answer is unfortunately NO!
However please do not get caught up in 20 year old plus anecdotal reef keeping light suggestions that are not based on modern technology or scientific facts as to the needs of high light requiring reef inhabitants. Most of the old school lines of thought are still stuck on the severely out of date “watts per gallon” rule which when applied to modern LED or T2 lights is extremely inaccurate.
With the modern LED Light Technology, and often ignored SHO, the T5 and the T5s newer more compact (& higher lumen per watt output); the T2; one has many excellent choices
• IMPORTANT- Another point about lighting in general is that higher wave lengths of light such as UVA do not penetrate glass well or even acrylic. I recommend direct lighting (best), quartz or polycarbonate where UVA is essential. Just make sure to clean your bulbs or polycarbonate tops regularly to prevent build up that will block light.
Even though infrared will penetrate glass, it will not penetrate dirty glass with algae or hard water deposits on it, so keep your aquarium cover clean for any tank where lighting is important such as FW plants or Reef Aquariums.
Here is a very basic breakdown of UV blocking potential:
*Glass- about 60% of UV will be blocked
*Acrylic- about 40%
*Polycarbonate- about 8-10% (this is what I used when a lid was necessary)
*Quartz- about .5-2%
SUMMARY:
Remember from all the information written above, that when deciding what lighting to get for your aquarium that the watts used is only one third or less of the equation in deciding what lights, what size and how many should be used. I will admit that I still will use the watts per gallon a starting point, but I do NOT finish with this either; this would be like starting a race in first gear and never shifting gears the entire race!
Please note that besides years of personal fresh and saltwater keeping experience, MUCH more of this information I have written here comes from research comes from OUTSIDE the aquarium industry as way to much aquarium lighting information commonly site elsewhere is just the same regurgitated information that just gets passed around in a small circle within the industry and hobby. Much of what I have learned (and I am STILL learning) comes from this constant research of as many lighting tech research as I can read often from horticulture or other outside sources as noted earlier
Some examples include the lack of information about SHO or T2 bulbs that are often superior to more commonly recommended bulbs in the aquarium hobby, yet in much better funded lighting and horticultural industry literature these bulbs are much better known as well the amount of evidence that suggests a Kelvin temperature of 6500 K provides the best PAR for both FW plants and SW corals photosynthesis flys in the face of much of the common beliefs (especially in reef keeping) that a Kelvin rating of 20,000 is best for all reef aquariums (for deep reef tanks 20,000 K is more practical).
There is also good evidence that correct lighting benefits ALL fish as well, including salt & freshwater fish. I have observed better disease resistance in marine fish in loosely controlled studies when lighting is upgraded to higher intensity, high PAR lights. Proper lighting may play a role in nutrient assimilation, improved Redox, lower incidence of Brown Diatom Algae. Studies in humans that show an impact of lighting on health, may have strong implications for fish (this may be a factor in my studies that showed higher disease resistance when lighting is improved).
Lighting that as closely duplicates the sun (not necessarily is most pleasing to us) is important for ALL life, although more noticeably for corals and plants, but fish too are part of this chain of life. Basically if you take away the sun and the energy it provides, you take away life itself and I do not think if you are trying to achieve the best environment for your fish whether fresh or saltwater, you are doing them a favor by depriving of this source of energy, so duplicating this is one more part of your “aquarium keeping puzzle” (see “Aquarium Disease Prevention”).
I should point out that obviously, some fish prefer subdued light, but this is easily handled by hiding places, caves, plants (live or artificial), products such as Peat or Indian Almond Leaves that “color” the water, and simple placement of lights where as some areas of the aquarium are better lit than others with plants/corals placed in way that benefit the most in these areas.
Here are more great sites with more information about light and lighting:
"WHY IS WATER BLUE"
"FACTS OF LIGHT- Color Temperature (Kelvin)"
"THE KRIB- Aquarium Light intensities comparisons "
"AQUA BOTANIC- A Comparison between Light Sources Used in Planted Aquaria"
For more aquarium information and articles (pond too), please visit this site:
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AQUARIUM LIGHTING, Complete and current information
Color Temperature in a Virtual Radiator
