• Water circulation
• Filtration
• Plant Filtration
• Cycling
• UV Sterilization (& green water)
• Pond Algae (Blanket, green water)
• Cleaning and maintenance
• Pond Care Bio Products
• Foam
• Feeding
• Treatment
• Chemistry
• Winter Care (& leaves)
• Pond Bottom/Substrates/ Yard Drainage
• Spring (Ground Water ) Fed Pond or Similar set up (including auto fill)
• Goldfish, Orfe, Fat Head Minnows and Koi
• Pond Predators
• Links to other useful pond articles and sites too, such as Natural Environmental Pond Products
• Koi Pond Video
By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 7/9/10
Keeping a clear garden pond in the warm or hot summer months involves these key ingredients:
Proper filtration (especially biological) and circulation, cleaning and maintenance (although a well built pond that is harmony with nature needs much less maintenance), proper chemistry and feeding. This article will also deal winter care tips, pond predators such as Herons and much more.
Placement of your yard pond is important, despite popular belief a pond is best placed above any low spots in your property as drainage from a rainstorm (or even over watering) can foul your pond adding many unwanted nutrients and more. The sides of your pond should be built up at least a few inches. I also recommend a minimum depth of 24”. Obviously a raised patio pond will not have this issue.
Done right, a well set up and maintained pond improves the beauty of your home and garden and this regularly updated article, as well as the useful links to other resources such as Veggie Filters, UV Sterilization, and Pond Algae (green water) should help the reader achieve this with a garden or patio pond.
[1] ADEQUATE WATER CIRCULATION AND MOVEMENT (Pumps).
A general principle (not a rule) of about 50-200 gph per 100 gallons can work for this (A lower proportional gph for large ponds, a higher proportional gph for small ponds). This can be achieved with more than one water pump. A large aeration device (air stone) coupled to an Air Pump can also aid in circulation and are especially useful for “lifting” (vertical circulation) water from the bottom of a pond when properly placed. Often an air stone/air pump combination is better than water pumps of greater gph for the aspect of vertical circulation (keep in mind that an air stone aerates the water by breaking surface tension, not by the bubbles in the water; the more surface agitation, the better oxygen exchange). A large double air pump such as a ReSun 9603, Million Air 600, Whisper 800, or Maxima with two air stones can circulate at a rate up to 500 gph. A way to check this is to place the air stone down a narrow PVC tube or aquarium lift tube, then place the top of the tube just above the water level and measure the rate the water fills up a gallon container (one gallon in 15 seconds= 240 gph).
For cross circulation (& lifting water to water features), a water pump is the primary choice. A good water pump for small to medium ponds (100–1000 gallons) are the Via Aqua 2600 , 3300 Pump. Both have sealed electromagnetic motors and ceramic shafts. The Via Aqua 306 can also be used in ponds, however I recommend using either the Filter version or making a pre-filter bucket to protect it due to the standard 306 not having a pre-filter (described below, which is a good idea for any pump unless a Hydro Pond Pre-Filter is used, which cannot be attached to a 306).
You can also place your pump in a DIY bucket pre-filter to protect it from debris and added mechanical and biological filtration. This is especially useful for pumps added solely to run UV Sterilizers. I use a bucket large enough to house the pump, add the pump, add gravel about ½” or larger, an outlet tube, then seal the container, and finally cut small holes in the top (not larger than ½’ in diameter. To the left is a diagram of how this would basically work: Click picture to enlarge
For larger ponds (250 – 2500 gallons) the newer state of the art ReSun King 5 and 6 with ceramic shafts and stainless steel shrouded impellers or the Via Aqua 8000 Pump are hard to beat; quite honestly I do not feel there is any better pond pump than these for under $150. In fact these pumps at under $100 compares in water volume and quality of pump to may pond pumps sold elsewhere for $250 and more. For even more head pressure for high pond features (such as a water fall or spitter) that require lifts of much more than 6 feet the Rio HF Water Pump line is without comparison with their Vortex Rotor Blade, especially for the price.
For Very large ponds, often the best way to go is with a heavy duty submersible pump with a directional vortex impeller or a pool/spa style pump that is designed for the harsh pond environment (some of these type pumps cannot stand up to the debris and other elements of pond water circulation). The Via Aqua Multi-Purpose Pond Pump at 3828 gph with a Directional vortex impeller (probably the best value in heavy duty pond pumps) or the SeaHorse line of pond pumps offers flow rates up to 4900 gph and are very well made reliable pumps for this purpose. When I have used these pumps, I have generally used 1.5 inch PVC pipe and then split the return pipe suing PVC ‘Ts’ and valves to control flow through other pond filters such as the Clear Stream Pressurized Filter and a UV Sterilizer. The purpose for this is to run multiple filters, UVs and/or to have a slower flow through these devices which generally work much better than at the high flow rate provide by this type of pump. Even with a large pump like the SeaHorse, I still recommend another smaller one for redundancy in case of failure, and often for large ponds I simply use several pumps like the Via Aqua 8000 Pump
Dissolved oxygen is VERY important in ponds (partly for the Redox Potential/Balance). All oxygen is exchanged at the surface, so good surface agitation over the entire pond is best. Waterfalls, fountains, air stones all can achieve this. Low dissolved oxygen levels and a low kH & GH (below 50/100 ppm respectively) your fish’ ability to perform osmoregulation & Redox Balance will be poor, allowing for much more opportunistic infections. The fountain head in the picture to the left (click to enlarge) is an excellent way to aerate. Some examples are available here: “Via Aqua 1300 and Fountain Head” (for small ponds), “Via Aqua 2600 and Fountain Head”, & “King 6 pond pump and Fountain Head”.
Good filtration, especially biological is essential to maintain a healthy pond with the only exception being with a “flow through/spring fed” pond. Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle (which is the same in a pond as in an aquarium with the added input of debris from trees, wind borne, and sometimes wild/domestic animals adding to this strain on the bio system. More than one filter is always best when possible and this includes natural plant/veggie filters (which add to the aesthetics and are an enjoyable DIY project in my opinion. Multiple types of filtration are also excellent, such as a pressurized filter- bio falls combination, or a pressurized filter- sponge filter combination.
The picture to the above/left shows a Via Aqua Multi-Purpose Pond Pump embedded in loose volcanic rock (for added pre-filtration) connected to a Pressurized Pond Filter and then to a High Output Pond UV Sterilizer/Clarifier. This picture displays how a large pump (as shown with the high flow VA Pump) can be utilized for more than one function, including multistage filtration, UV Sterilization, a fountain and even can be diverted for watering a Veggie Filter Please note that a control valve may be needed on both sides of the diversion ‘T’, otherwise the water will follow the “path of least resistance”, put another way if your water flow is too slow through the UV Sterilizer/Filter side of this example, it may be that the return is too high above the other return and simply lowering the return will solve this problem. As well after splitting a return line, the lines should not be combined later in the return. Please read the UV Sterilizations section for more on this subject.
I do not recommend the old style Becket or Pond Master Submersible filters; they clog easily, are hard to service, and are not efficient filters. However the Pondmaster 1000/2000 can be vastly improved by unscrewing the screws in each corner and adding biological filter media to this area under the tray (as the Pondmaster 1000 only utilizes two pads that only perform mechanical, some chemical , and no essential bio filtration). Volcanic Rock is excellent for this or better yet would be SeaChem Matrix (which should be placed in a nylon filter bag). Both of these would add considerably to bio filtration of your pond by adding to your filter. I also suggest replacing the black carbon impregnated pad in the Pondmaster with a cut to fit Poly Pad and add carbon or Zeolite underneath the tray (also in a filter bag).
I prefer pressurized pond filters such as the "Clear Stream" for their efficiency and ease of hiding in the ground. These filters include the popular Tetra, Lifeguard Pressurized, and Cyprio, which are excellent too, but over priced. Pressurized filters can be buried in the ground or place behind a water feature easily. These filters are one of the best bio filters available for the price and are also excellent mechanical filters. I do NOT however recommend these filters with the attached/built in UV Sterilizers as these units all have poor UVC exposure and the gph per watt (which needs to be less than 40 gph) is TOO high in typical applications. A separate UV is vastly more effective when plumbed properly.
For small ponds (and even medium-large), large sponge filters are excellent bio filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are inexpensive, easy to service, and simple to attach with either a power head pump or and air stone. There now is a specific Pond Sponge Filter called the Hydro-Pond, there are two models; one air driven, one pump driven. They are useful up to 1500 gallons and more can be used for larger ponds or in combination with other filters. The Hydro Pond IV makes an excellent pre filter for pond pumps before water is circulated to another filter such as a pressurized filter. I highly recommend the Hydro Pond filters for pond owners on a budget, owners of small ponds, are just to add redundancy to existing pond filters
With the Via Aqua BH-2000AD (pictured to the left) you can easily attach a UV Sterilizer to the “diverter” valve (just above the filter and below the fountain head) for improved water clarity. A UV Sterilizer can also be added to the diverter valve of the Lifeguard all in One or the Pondmaster 1000 filter as well. See the UV Sterilizer section further in this article for a diagram.
Bio falls such as the Savio Livingponds Filters are also excellent pond filters. These filters can also be DYI (Do it yourself) or you can start with a basic Bio Falls “skeleton” filter (pictured to the left) and then add bio filter media (such as Volcanic rock) and place a Polyester Media on top. However if you have purchased a unit such as Savio Livingponds Waterfall filter, you can add extra media to meet your pond needs and possibly save money. For instance I have often substituted volcanic rock of different sizes (depending on coarseness of filtration needed) for bio and mechanical media in these and similar filter. This article about Aquarium filter media can also be applied to ponds: Aquarium (and pond) Filter Media)
Plastic grates and even rocks formed into basin can be used to construct the bio and mechanical filter for flow through either prior to a water all or after (prior is more common). If a cement product is used in construction, I recommend sealing it with a water proof sealer available at most Home Improvement Stores. Use of volcanic rock for bio filtration and Coarse Polyester Media (pictured to the left) can help with the filtration need of your bio falls project.
A filter that is also used is pool style sand filters. I have used these filters in many of my largest pond installations (over 5,000 gallons). Despite what pundits for these over priced monstrosities say, they are not designed for ponds. They compact and the water tend to follow the path of least resistance thru these filter, leaving areas on anaerobic bacteria producing poisonous Hydrogen Sulfide. DO NOT be fooled by their high price (often approaching $1000), I can tell you from vast experience with them that they are NOT worth it!!
One other filter of note is the barrel style filter by Tetra and Coralife; these are excellent bio filters, but poor mechanical filters. They also are hard to hide as they have to use gravity to poor water back into the pond after the pump first supplies these filters with un-filtered water.
To the left is a diagram of a basic Gravity drain DIY in line Pond Filter (principle is similar to Tetra or Coralife barrel filters).
Click picture to enlarge
Volcanic rock makes an excellent filter media for DIY pond filters, waterfall filters, veggie filters (for the base), and many types of commercial filters such as the Savio. Please click on the picture for more information.
[3] PLANT FILTRATION (Often called Veggie Filters);
This is a very important part of pond keeping and filtration. A well planted and diversified planted pond is VERY important for clarity (including Green Water), pond and fish health, and even fish breeding. Any plant with a good root structure that grows fast and has the majority of their leaves above water is a good candidate to start with. I recommend water iris for their strong root structure, fast growth, great nutrient absorption, and a great place for baby fish (fry) to hide feed and grow (if you use an “in pond” Veggie Filter). There are many other excellent plants as well such as Sweet Flag, Parrots feather, Bluebells, Umbrella palm, Papyrus, & bull rush. Make sure these types of plants (plants with roots in water and leaves above) are planted in an area of good, but not strong water movement. This ensures that they will do their job as plant filters.
I will off place this plant filter in an area of water constriction between two ponds or in an upper waterfall area with low to moderate current. In smaller Ponds I will just place this plant filter in a corner of the pond with a small water current applied to the planted area. I prefer my plant filters within the pond as these look more attractive in my opinion and give the fish fry a place to hide (except in the case of the waterfall or cascade plant filter). The area of the veggie filter should be relatively shallow as well to force water movement over and through the roots (the pictures above do NOT represent a proper veggie filter, just a picture of an umbrella palm and water iris). I also recommend ½” -2” rock under the plants to allow the roots to better establish themselves, do not use sand or soil. Other methods include separate veggie filters in containers or pools. I am not as fond of this method for the reasons above, however these do work.
Other plants such as lilies and hyacinth are reasonable for nutrient removal too, but not at the rate of iris and similar plants. These plants do not have the root structure that will aid in the rapid removal of nitrates and ammonia. These other plants are useful for shade, which will slow algae growth.
Click picture to enlarge
FOR MY FULL VEGGIE FILTER ARTICLE, please visit this link: “POND VEGGIE (PLANT FILTERS)” This article includes much more information on this subject, as well as links to resources for bog plants and similar. The bottom line is few ponds in my opinion are truly complete without a Veggie/Bog Plant Filter as they can make a big difference when done right in pond clarity (I had one pond I built for a client that had such a large and efficient Veggie Filter that it stayed clear without the UV Sterilizer running). For those who read this, please note that in my emphasis of the use of Veggie filters is not driven by financial gain, that although I obviously list products to sell through my many articles, I have little to gain since these are primarily a DIY products.
[4] POND CYCLING:
Generally speaking this process is about 99% the same as aquarium cycling, so I would strongly recommend reading this excellent article: The Aquarium and Pond Nitrogen Cycle, cycling
I would add in addition to this article that the process of cycling in a pond takes 6-8 weeks in warm months, but cooler temperatures such as a pond under 60 F can delay this process. The amount of bio media such as Volcanic Rock available can also affect this “break in” time. As noted above, the addition to a Veggie Filter can not only increase filtration capacity, but also improve your ponds cycling process.
[5] UV STERILIZATION (& Algae Control):
Although not always necessary in a well planted, well shaded, well filter aquarium; they are still very useful. UVs help with algae control, disease prevention, and the Redox potential (which is important for fish health and proper filtration). For the UV to properly function in a pond, the flow rate should not exceed 20-45 gph per watt of UVC (lower flow rates of under 25 gph are best for sterilization while the higher limits of 45 gph are still OK for algae clumping/erradication). In larger ponds with high flow rates I recommend more than one UV sterilizer, with a by-pass from the main line, connected in parallel not in line together OR a separate, slower pump (with a pre-filter installed for the sole purpose to run the Pond UV sterilizer). For this reason, I also do not recommend the popular filters (including the Clear Stream we sell as well as the Tetra or Cyprio pressurized filters) with built in UVs. The flow rate is usually too high to work properly , as well there is usually too much debris in suspension in these filters for the UVC radiation to properly work and the design of most I have seen and used have too high a gap between UV bulb/quartz sleeve sterilizer compartment wall, which is generally not adequate for good UVC exposure. A separate UV is always best! I have maintained ponds with UVs in filters and UVs separate and the difference in water quality in the separate UV ponds is significant.
For more information about proper UV sterilization and how it works please visit this site; "WHY USE A UV STERILIZER"
Many times I have heard of complaints that their UV did not help with algae control, when I checked this client’s pond, I found inadequate filtration and an improperly installed UV sterilizer. Even a properly installed UV Sterilizer cannot over come poor filtration and a poorly planted pond. And many manufacturers make claims of high flow rates that are impossible for proper contact time.
POND UV WITH BYPASS APPLICATION DIAGRAM; Click picture to enlarge.
To maintain a proper flow rate per watt per gph, connect a ‘T’ in line to your high flow rate pump, from there a reducing bushing (Ex. In 1-1/2” PVC I would step it down with a 1-1/2” by ¾ bushing), from there an in-line ball valve, from there to your Pond UV Sterilizer, then back to your pond or water feature (such as a waterfall or spitter).
You can also simply add a separate lower rate pump just for your Pond UV Sterilizer.
The picture to the left depicts a UV flow diverter for use with high flow pond (or aquarium) pumps so as to achieve correct gph/per watt flow rate through the UV Sterilizer. Please click on the picture to visit page these are listed on or to purchase These diverter valves are also listed/sold here: TMC UV Sterilizer/Clarifier; Extra Parts, accessories
Please note that these diverters only represent a fraction of PVC sizes and combinations, as well a ball valve may also be necessary on two sides of the diverter if head pressure is too high on the UV Sterilizer return side.
Here are a few solutions if the flow is too slow through your UV Sterilizer: • Add a ball valve to the other outlet to force more water through the UV Sterilizer • Lower the return for the UV Sterilizer to a place in the pond that is lower than the primary return, thus lowering head pressure through the UV and thus increasing flow. • Do not recombine the two (or more) return lines down line before entering the pond, this interrupts water flow and will increase back pressure and reduce flow. All return lines must enter the pond separately!
This diagram shows a Via Aqua BH2000 AD Filter/Pump connected to a UV Sterilizer via the built in diverter valve. This valve is common to most similar fountains and filters such as the Pondmaster 1000, Lifeguard All in One and many more. Please click on the picture to enlarge for a better view
Further Pond UV Sterilizer/Clarifier Suggestions;
For larger ponds (over 2000 gallons) often placing two UV Sterilizers such as two Terminator 36 Watt UV will be more economical than one larger UV Sterilizer as when used with separate pumps, the flow pattern is often better, therefore the pond "turnover rate" (how often the entire pond water passes through the UV Clarifier) is generally slightly higher than one unit of say 75 watts that often costs more than double the price as well. The use of one pump with two UV Sterilizers (or more) can also work well, provided the returns are in different locations of the pond for optimum circulation and water turnover in the UV Sterilizer, however I have still achieved the best results when tow or more UVs are employed by using separate pumps with intakes and returns in separate locations of the pond to optimize water flow patterns through the UV Clarifier.
For very high volume pumps or extra large ponds units such as the TMC Professional 110 Watt UV Sterilizer would be an excellent choice. This is probably one of the best UV Sterilizers in its class, with high water exposure time even at high flow rates, without paying for often useless gimmicks. Although the advertised flow rate maximum is 9600 gph, I personally only recommend half this (about 4800 gph), however this still allows for the largest of water pumps (especially once one considers loss of gph when head pressure is applied by lifting through water features and the UV itself). As well this would allow this UV Clarifier to work via turnover of pond once every 2-3 hours of a pond up to 12,000 + gallons.
I should also note that spending more money for a pond UV Clarifier with wipers or HO UV-C bulbs is often not money well spent, as the wipers are often gimmicks that easily break and do little even when functional. As well HO (high output) UVC lights often are very short and even with this higher output, these are often still not enough for the water flow that is usually applied to these UVs. For example, although a 50 Watt HO bulb of 18 inches will handle a higher water flow of a 25 watt UVC bulb of 18 inches, the flow rate is not doubled.
Better is a unit with long exposure such as the TMC Professional 110 Watt UV Clarifier as compared a Smart HO Two-Lamp 100 Watt UV Sterilizer or two TMC Pond Advantage Premium 25 Watt UV Sterilizer as compared to one Emperor 50 Watt UV. The TMC Pro 110 Watt is not only vastly less money, it is a superior UV Sterilizer in terms of UVC exposure and performance, as well the TMC Professional 25 watt is recognized by many pond keepers in Europe (where these are the #1 premium UV Sterilizer) as one best UVs for their ponds and two of these Sterilizers often cost less than many gimmicky 50 watt UVs!.
For an article that deals with the question of pond filter placement in relation to a UV Sterilizer (as well as many other aspects of UV Sterilizer us), please follow this link: Is the UV best placed after or before a filter in a pond
Finally, while I recommend a a UV Sterilizer/Clarifier for most ponds, I find that many pond keepers are too dependent upon this device where as if the the UV ceases to function the pond immediately turns pea soup green. In my experience this indicates a pond that also is in need of better filtration, as the UV Clarifier should be a compliment to good filtration, not make up for poor filtration. The Veggie Filter I suggested earlier is a good idea or simply adding more filters if your pond has some filtration, but your current filtration is not adequate.
In a healthy pond, with a properly functioning nitrogen cycle, water changes can be minimal. I still recommend a water change of 10-20% per month on a healthy, fully functional pond. In a newer pond larger and more frequent changes may be necessary. If your pond has a KH below 80 ppm and a pH below 7.0, I would first look to possible causes. One common one is the buildup of organic mulm on the bottom of the pond. The decomposition of this will produce nitric acids which will affect the pH and KH. Since most pond keeper have koi or goldfish, this is important to note, as both these fish do much better at a pH above 7.2 and need the calcium provided by the KH for proper osmotic function. See “Proper Calcium, Magnesium and KH in Aquariums” for more information about Calcium KH, and GH.
Here are a few determining factors for water changes in a pond: *Nitrates- If they climb above 50 ppm *Phosphates- If they climb above 1.0 ppm *KH- If it falls below 80 ppm (assuming your tap/well water is higher) *GH- If it falls below 150 ppm (assuming your tap/well water is higher)
If a lot of leaves fall to the bottom of the pond vacuuming them or raking them out is important to prevent organic buildup. Water changes also will help with pH and KH if your tap or well water is slightly alkaline and has a KH above 80 ppm.
Your pond filter should also be part of your pond cleaning schedule. With a pressurized filter such as the Clear Stream Pond Filter I recommend cleaning and rinsing once per month during pond season or more often if the flow rate slows down.
Veggie Filters should cleaned and trimmed at least once per season.
[8] POND CARE BIOLOGICAL PRODUCTS
For sludge build up products such as Natural Environmental Beneficial Bacteria, Microbe-lift or Pond Zyme plus (by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals) are very useful for aiding in the breakdown of sludge and other organic mulm through the action of bacteria and enzymes. I have used and sold these products in my Aquarium and pond Maintenance business with fair results. They are good at aiding in the breakdown of sludge and improving filter efficiency, however it is not a cure all for poor filtration and pond maintenance and some claims in my opinion are somewhat over blown. Of these products, the Natural Environmental Beneficial Bacteria Blocks are about the best and the easiest to use and when used properly can be a compliment to other good pond maintenance procedures. Another product by Natural Environmental that I like is their Beneficial bacteria with barley straw as this combines Heterotrophic bacteria with the benefits of barley straw.
It is important to note that these products are primarily Heterotrophic Bacteria and other enzymes, NOT the nitrifying Autotrophic bacteria necessary for a healthy nitrogen cycle, please see this article for very in depth information about the aquatic Nitrogen Cycle: “The Aquarium and Pond Nitrogen Cycle” (the article is officially titled “aquarium nitrogen cycle, however the information contained there in applies equally to ponds). This is not to say these products are not useful as noted in the preceding paragraph, just not for seeding a new pond or making up for poor filtration or bio maintenance. These products are also ineffective if used in a pond with no filter or at least gravel bottom for a place to accumulate these bacteria/enzymes. For example, dumping these products into a bare fountain/pond that only contains a pump for circulation will result in little effectiveness.
I have found best results with bio pond care products when added in the evening and if a UV Sterilizer is attached to the pond, turning this off for the night and then back on in the morning (when the need for a UV Sterilizer/clarifier is highest), this allows the bacteria/enzymes a better chance of getting into substrate and filter media where they will be most effective in digesting organic sludge and waste.
[9] POND FOAM:
Foam around waterfalls and other water features is not uncommon, however if this is a persistent problem, there may be other issues at play in your pond. Often this is caused by too many organics, so lowering you bio load, watching the amount of food you feed and most importantly; improving filtration can go a long ways here. This can also be caused by an excess of Phosphates (often related to organics in the water column already mentioned). Phosphates can be added from tap water or even more often, runoff from watering or rain water through your garden. For this make sure your pond has a raised ledge to prevent this problem (I talk about this further under Pond Bottoms)
For minor problems, especially foam that occurs only around water features, products such as Jungle’s No More Foam can be useful for blocking the waters ability to foam
[10] FEEDING
Feeding a quality diet can be beneficial for growth, breeding, color, and even the environment as there is less nitrogenous waste to add to the water column. You want a food high in aquatic based proteins (although not too high in protein as most koi and goldfish are more “grazers”). Whole fish meal or white fish meal is a good source. An amino acid that is important to koi and goldfish is DL-methionine and is found in Whole fish meal as well as peas. Cereal is not a good source of energy for fish as it is in humans, fish utilize fats more for energy. Cereal is mostly used as roughage and to move other nutrients thru the digestive tract.
In summer months I usually feed twice per day, as temperatures fall below 70 F (20 C) in the pond I feed once per day. When temperatures fall below 60 F (15 C) in the pond I feed every other day or less, depending on fish feeding habits. Below 50 F (10 C), I do not generally feed.
For adult Koi there are several quality foods available: Hai Feng, Sanyu, A-Zoo, Hikari, and Nursery-Pro as well as "super premium" brands such as Aqua Masters just to name a few. For goldfish or shubunkins I recommend Spirulina 20 Flake, Hikari, or Sanyu. For fry (in addition to natural foods that will be available around the plant roots and other calm areas of the pond), I powder Spirulina Flakes and stir it into a cup of water, then pour this solution into the area the fish fry are at. For even more information about what constitutes a quality fish food and more, please visit this URL: Quality fish Food; what ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, health and growth.
[11] POND CHEMISTRY (GH, KH, etc..);
This is important not just for fish health, but also for algae control as well. Besides ammonia, nitrites, and phosphates kept near 0 ppm, nitrates should be kept under 50 and the often forgotten GH and KH should kept no lower than 100 and 50 ppm respectively. A good electrolyte level maintained by a proper GH will also help maintain a good Redox which in turn aids in water clarity, not to mention the very important aspect of good osmotic function in fish for long term health. If your GH is low this can be a problem during the hours of the day when photosynthesis is high, even with an adequate KH. It is possible due to the production of carbonates by plants and algae without adequate water hardness (GH). In a pond with high algae growth this can especially become a problem due to increased photosynthesis. So the reduction of algae is important if GH, pH, or KH are problematic. please click the picture to enlarge for better view For more about how this affects algae, please follow this article: Pond Algae For more about Alkalinity and hardness in ponds, please read this outside resource: Interactions of pH, Carbon Dioxide, Alkalinity and Hardness in Fish Ponds
Generally most Pond Fish such as Koi and Goldfish like a higher ph of about 7.8 (although a pH in the range of 6.8 to 8.0 is often acceptable). A well planted stable pond usually does not have problems with too high or too low a pH.
If your pH is too low, Wonder Shells can help, especially with GH (Sea Chem Marine Buffer aids here too). For large volumes of water, aragonite may be more cost effective (Oyster shells are too slow to dissolve and do not work well IMO). However I do NOT recommend the use of lime (CaO) as this is not balanced and not add the other necessary elements such as Magnesium, carbonates.
For too high a pH (rare), these are cost effective ways in a pond: *Barley Straw pellets or extract (great for algae control too, although so-so for ph)
*Almond shells (this is really good for lowering ph, more effective than peat and with the side effect of being antibacterial)
*A veggie filter (this helps with a stable pH and produces nitric acid)
This is far a complete list, however many more can found in our Aquatic Information drop down list in the header bar or at Aquarium/Pond Answers.
One important point I will make that is not pointed out in these articles as although this is important for aquariums, it is much more important for ponds, and that is the importance of changing water (at least 25%) prior to every single treatment. The reason is that ponds in particular generally have a high content of dissolved organics, floating algae or similar bio substances, much more so than the average aquarium. These organics will absorb many treatments, especially chemical treatments such as those that contain Malachite Green (such as Quick Cure, which is a very effective pond treatment of many small pond parasites). By changing water first, this allows for more medications to be delivered to the pathogens causing disease, as well this will generally improve water conditions which in turn helps the fish fight off the infections/infestation better. This can also lower the amount of medication that might be needed to treat your pond as well. I recommend this water change prior to any and all treatments.
[12] WINTER POND CARE;
It is important in winter to keep at least a small section of your pond open for proper exchange of gasses (O2, CO2), if water can still flow into the pond through a water or aeration device, that will work. A minimum depth of 24” (deeper in climates where soil temperatures drop below 32 F) will provide enough water space under the ice for fish to hibernate (even in the coldest climates, ice will really extend more than 6-8”). However if you live in an area of hard freezes, you may need a device such as this Pond Master Deicer: Or an aeration device or pump placed about midway from the surface/bottom that circulates upward generally will keep an area of the pond surface free of ice and allow proper gas exchange. In deep ponds over 5-6 feet (1.75 -2 meters), thermal layering, called thermoclines, may exist. This acts as sort of an “inversion layer” similar to how smog gets trapped in the air in Los Angeles. This traps CO2 and Hydrogen Sulfide near the bottom which is dangerous to fish and in this case you need to add water pumps or aeration devices at the bottom.
Here is an example of a simple aeration method using an air pump and air stone (click to enlarge).
You can also connect this air pump to Filters such as the Hydro Pond II for added winter filtration (especially if your main water pump is shut off).
If you live in an area where leaves fall (even if there is no winter ice), removal of these leaves or covering of your pond is a necessity to prevent decay that will produce ammonia, CO2, nitric acid (which in turn lowers pH and KH to dangerously low levels). Decay can also result in the production of Hydrogen Sulfide from anaerobic breakdown.
Sometimes removal of fish in the winter is also necessary when the pond is very shallow (under 18-24 inches). I recommend avoiding this if at all possible with larger mature fish as this can injure and often cause more stress than simply improving your pond to deal with winter conditions. If this must be done with younger fish, you need to find a tub that is as large as possible (the tub pictured at the left or a plastic untreated livestock trough works well as well as sturdy "Kiddie pools"). I recommend using a simple pond filter such as the Hydro Pond II connected to an air pump to filter such a tub pond. Keep the pond in an area of your garage or similar that is above freezing but not too warm so as to minimize activity and need for feeding and thus pollution.
Construction and make up of your pond can be done in three different ways (and there is no one best way; the best way fits your pond size needs, climate and budget).
A preformed pond is probably the most simple. With this method you basically dig a hole to the shape of the pond, remove sharp rocks, add sand for a cushion maybe cut a few holes on the size for bulk heads to add filtration and you’re ready to add rocks, filtration and décor. This style is good for small applications (usually under 250 gallons) and where roots or gophers may be a problem.
A pond liner made of PVC material or EPDM. I prefer the EPDM in a 45 mil. Thickness. With liners you can generally go up to a 1000 gallon pond. Preparation is similar to a preformed pond, however more care needs to taken with sharp rocks and a pre liner or sand should be used. Also in areas of high tree roots or gopher activity these can be compromised.
The other method is a concrete pond using rebar for support as well. This is probably the most expensive method however this is the method I recommend over 1000 gallons. I have subcontracted (installing the filtration) for many concrete ponds and it is important to use a good contractor or prepare and build this properly yourself as even a concrete pond that is poorly built can have problems. Make sure to not build a concrete pond on “fill” as the pond will often settle and crack. Also proper use of rebar is a must especially in ponds over 3000 gallons.
Despite the popularity of drains, I do not install these as I prefer to allow the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria breakdown wastes (I will have a PVC T and ball valve near an outside filter to drain my pond via my pump for water changes and cleanings)
Bottom substrate:
Rock or large gravel on the bottom will aid in the growth of bacteria to break down organic matter. In smaller ponds (under 200 gallons) I personally usually do not add a substrate per say, rather I allow the roots of potted plants (that will grow out of there pots) to collect there own debris. I do often add some zeolite or laterite both for absorption of some nutrients and for plant roots.
Drainage problems around your pond:
If you are having flooding problems around your pond, you may need to dig a trench to lay PVC drainage lines to an area of your property that is lower. If this is not possible, a dry well may need to be installed. This article deals with building a dry well: Better Yard Drainage. Garden/ Yard Drain with cleanout and basic drain.
[14] SPRING FED POND (Also water level maintenance);
If you live in an area of natural springs or have creek flowing nearby, this can make for a very healthy, clear and natural pond. If it is possible to divert water into your pond (or just fill from below with a spring), this is always an excellent idea! This way you will likely maintain lower nitrates and phosphates, less algae, better Redox, and better electrolyte levels resulting in a clearer pond and healthier fish. Make sure to have an overflow or skimmer to remove excess water. If you have a well you can achieve similar results (or even use your well during the dry season when the spring or creek diversion dries up). I also have achieved a similar effect with just plain tap water used in a very slow flow (a 10% water exchange per day or less will not show any ill effects from chlorine). Make sure this is not a problem with local water companies first, although the ponds I used tap water overflow on used less than 200 gallons per day (for a 2000 gallon pond) which is less than watering one’s lawn for an hour. If with this method, filtration and circulation are still needed in my experience, although this often allows for a more simple filter (such the Hydro-Pond Sponge Filter). A Veggie filter is very useful in this set-up too!
Another method for adding water simply is a float valve. These will add water due to evaporation or loss of water by other means and can even be used with flow through system to automatically regulate water level. Here is a picture of such a float valve by Hagen (Laguna):
[15] KOI, GOLDFISH, ROSY-RED FATHEADS & GOLDEN/BLUE ORFE; Koi, Orfe and Goldfish are all from the family Cyprinidae.
Koi can grow very large, up to three feet (the Butterfly variety does not grow as large in my experience). Koi are ideally kept in at least 200 gallons per fish (I have kept them in less however this is less than ideal). On the other hand can grow up to 23” (I find this somewhat uncommon though) and are better suited for ponds under 1000 gallons and especially ponds under 200 gallons. This site also has some good articles about Koi: KoiVet Shubunkins are a very inexpensive yet very pretty goldfish that have many color variations like koi, however these do well in small ponds.
The Golden Orfe (& Blue), is suitable for ponds. It can grow up to 2.5 feet but usually stays near 1.5 feet. It is a long, slender, bullet-shaped, schooling, orange fish often with black dots on its head and back. Orfes are native to Europe and were derived from the ide which is a silver predator. They need lots of room generally live 10 20 years, however this has not been established. They are great to put goldfish and koi at ease and encourage them to spend time near the surface. Many pond keepers say that Golden Orfes are better pond fish than goldfish. This is probably due to their fast, active behavior near the surface where you can see them seemingly having fun.
The Fathead Minnow and Rosy Red Minnow are popular fish for ponds and even aquariums. These small graceful fish do well in similar water conditions as Koi, Goldfish, and Orfe which is higher GH and a pH between 7-8, and prefer temperatures between 50 75 (10-24 C), although they can survive between 33- 100 (1- 38 C). Fathead minnows grow to 2-3 inches (5-8 cm.) for males and 1-2 inches (3-5 cm.) for females (which can be identified by Ovipositors, fatter and shorter bodies). These are generally peaceful fish with breeding habits similar to Cichlids and often will “stir up” Koi and other larger fish to make them come out more and are less cautious. Fathead Minnows will eat most offering and will do well with what most goldfish or koi eat, although they tend to be a bit more carnivorous, and will eat a lot more mosquito larvae and similar (these are excellent to keep down Mosquitoes). Kept in an aquarium I would recommend tropical fish food due to their more carnivorous needs.
Herons have been the most common predator to my customer’s ponds that I have had to deal with. I do not like to add anything that detracts from the beauty of the ponds I maintained, so decoys were my first choice. I found Heron decoys such as this one: worked well at not only scaring away Herons, but other predatory birds as well such as Cormorants, Owls, etc.. (I might note that these decoys do NOT work in breeding season).
I also employed motion sensor scarecrows that connected to a water supply and then squirted ANYTHING that moved (such as other predatory birds such as Owls), this device also worked for dogs that would “play” in the pond (often destroying it and scaring fish), but was not as effective for raccoons.
Another way to protect your fish from predators is a 12” diameter drain pipe placed (and hidden) under water for the fish to escape and hide in. One more idea is under water fish decoys combined with the drain pipe or similar methods. These ‘fake’ koi give the real fish time to escape.
I do NOT recommend wire mesh as some other sites suggest as this is very ineffective and just plain UGLY (why would you make a beautiful garden pond just to cover it in wire?). I have seen raccoons and even Herons find a loose spot and go right under. The only time I would recommend wire mesh or netting is in fall to stop leaf litters which can often over come a ponds bio capacity. Maples can especially be bad about ruining an otherwise healthy pond.
KOI VARIETIES VIDEO:
SUMMARY
Pond Set up Suggestion:
For the reader confused by all the information I have “thrown at them” here is an example I would give if you were a pond owner that called my pond maintenance company out to see what could be done to improve their pond.
For instance, if the pond was 2500 gallons (a medium-large pond in my opinion) and was green and dirty and only contained one 800 gph pump with a fountain head, yet no filter or plants, I would suggest a King 5 or 6 pump (to bring the turnover up to once per hour to 1.5 hours needed for a pond this size). With this pump I would place a diverter and run 1/3 the water through a Clear Stream 1200 and then a Terminator 18 watt or 36 watt UV Sterilizer/Clarifier (depending on your flow, sunlight exposure; higher flow and sunlight= larger UV clarifier).
The other part of this water would then be diverted to “irrigate” a Veggie filter sitting in a bed of volcanic rock.
The fountain would still be employed for additional circulation and redundancy (I always prefer more than one pump).
This is just ONE suggestion, hopefully with the information and links/resources given in this article the reader can make the best choices for their exact situation.
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Volcanic rock
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